Because of gentrification and noise complaints, many of Taipei’s night markets aren’t as robust as they were decades ago. Ningxia Night Market is a distinguished exception, and many of the food stalls here are owned by second-generation proprietors.
36 Hours in Taipei, Taiwan
Justin Guariglia for The New York Times
Clockwise from top left: SOGO department store; Fuhang Doujiang; bar and cocktail at Marquee; Hsingtian Temple. More Photos »
By YEOU-JEY HSU
Published: April 11, 2013
Nestled in a river valley and edged by low, tranquil mountains covered
in tea shrubs, Taipei is home to 2.6 million people. The cultural and
political center of Taiwan, it flaunts its modernity in high-tech
company headquarters, an ultraefficient public transportation system and
bustling retail centers. Yet it also encompasses teeming street
markets, polytheistic temples, recreational green space and other
vestiges of ancient traditions reflecting generations of cultural influx
from nearby and far-off lands. A haven for insomniacs of all types,
Taipei is truly a city that never sleeps, welcoming residents and
visitors to brush up on their history, explore their spirituality and,
most of all, satisfy their taste buds.
Multimedia
FRIDAY
3 p.m.
1. High Tea
1. High Tea
Take a taxi, the city bus or gondola lift to the Muzha Tea Plantations, a
mountainside tea-cultivating district just outside the city center that
is dotted with vibrant temples and teahouses. Tea plants thrive in
Taiwan’s climate and topography, and Taipei’s tea drinkers are
discriminating connoisseurs. Be sure to sample varieties of Tieguanyin
(“iron goddess of mercy”), a source of local pride. Produced in a
delicate roasting process, it’s a robust, fragrant brew that is low in
tannin and easy on the palate. Depending on its quality, a 300-gram tin
of tea leaves is 200 to 3,000 Taiwan dollars, or $7 to $105, at 28
Taiwan dollars to the U.S. dollar. Visit the Three Stone Teapot Museum
(36 Zhinan Road, Section 3, Lane 34; 886-2-2938-3797) for demonstrations
of artisan teapot and tea making, offered with free tastings.
Admission, 50 dollars. Descend the mountains after sunset to catch a
view of the Taipei skyline at twilight.
7:30 p.m.
2. Feast From the East
2. Feast From the East
For more than three decades, Newfulou (2 Jinshan South Road;
886-2-2351-9690) has dished up cuisine from Jiangsu, an eastern Chinese
province that borders Shanghai. One specialty is succulent sautéed baby
eel, finished at the table with shredded ginger and a dramatic drizzle
of sizzling oil (300 dollars). Newfulou also prepares an award-winning
fotiaoqiang (“Buddha jumps over the wall”), a mélange of meats, seafood
and vegetables that takes a full day (or two) to braise (980 dollars).
According to ancient folklore, even the most devout vegetarian will
abandon his faith for a sampling of these delicacies.
9 p.m.
3. Shop All Night
3. Shop All Night
When night falls, vendors peddle snacks, massages, clothes, accessories
and electronics in the city’s famed night markets. Shop and haggle the
night away, snacking as you go on oyster omelets (30 dollars),
salt-crusted kebabs (30 dollars), pressed-to-order sugarcane nectar (15
dollars), and the legendary stinky tofu (30 dollars), a fermented
specialty that tastes much better than it smells. The night market at
Huaxi Street is known for edible preparations from venomous snakes, rats
and the like, believed by some to be rich in health benefits. The Shida
District appeals to the young and chic, and the Shilin District market
is impressive for its sheer size. For a change of scenery, visit the
flagship Eslite Bookstore (245 Dunhua South Road, Section 1; eslite.com),
a giant emporium of domestic and international books, periodicals,
stationery, music, food and drinks (drinks, 100 to 200 dollars). Open
24/7, it is a popular rendezvous for locals as well as a prime spot for
celebrity sightings. At dawn, follow the sound of roosters crowing to
Dongmen Market (81 Xinyi Road, Section 2, Lane 79), where generations of
day merchants have expertly butchered livestock, pickled vegetables,
roasted meats, wrapped dumplings and sliced tree-ripened fruits
(ready-to-eat meals, 50 to 100 dollars).
SATURDAY
9 a.m.
4. Above It All
4. Above It All
Go early for your visit to Taipei 101 (7 Xinyi Road, Section 5; taipei-101.com.tw),
the 1,670-foot skyscraper that reaches so far above the skyline that it
looks as if it belongs in some other city (or on some other planet).
Taiwan’s entry into the ongoing competition for the tallest building in
the world, it held the title after its completion in 2004, only to be
surpassed in 2008 by the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. The observation decks on
the 89th and 91st floors afford sweeping views in every direction
(admission, 450 dollars). While at the top, take a good look at the
steel pendulum hanging in the center; the world’s largest and heaviest
tuned mass damper, it stabilizes the tower against large lateral
movements from tropical winds and earthquakes. Beginning at ground
level, you can enjoy five floors of high-end shopping and dining.
11 a.m.
5. Darkness Remembered
5. Darkness Remembered
Take a stroll on the palm-lined west campus of the National Taiwan
University Hospital at 1 Changde Street. Its oldest building, an
imposing redbrick and stone-pillared structure built in 1912, is an
architectural relic of Japanese sovereignty at the turn of the 20th
century. The paternalistic side of the Japanese era brought advancements
in agriculture, education and urban planning, but the price was
political and cultural suppression. Around the corner, 228 Peace
Memorial Park (3 Ketagalan Boulevard) commemorates victims of a
heavy-handed government response to a 1947 protest under another set of
rulers, Chiang Kai-shek and his Nationalist Party. In public parks like
these, the elderly perform morning exercises, the secret to their vigor
and youthful appearance.
12:30 p.m.
6. Shoppers’ Helpers
Shop for cosmopolitan labels at the mega department store SOGO (45 Zhongxiao East Road, Section 4; sogo.com.tw), known for meticulous Japanese-style customer service: white-gloved elevator attendants, bowing greeters with precise diction, ever-helpful sales associates. Underground dining spots and rooftop restaurants flank endless floors of shopping. After an afternoon of credit-card swiping go next door to T.K.K. Fried Chicken (177 Zhongxiao Road, Section 4; tkkinc.com.tw). Even before the infiltration of Western fast-food chains, T.K.K. was serving its staple, fried chicken with yam wedges (105 to 125 dollars). Don’t miss the signature rice wrap: glutinous rice in poultry skin, deep-fried to crackling perfection (45 dollars).
6. Shoppers’ Helpers
Shop for cosmopolitan labels at the mega department store SOGO (45 Zhongxiao East Road, Section 4; sogo.com.tw), known for meticulous Japanese-style customer service: white-gloved elevator attendants, bowing greeters with precise diction, ever-helpful sales associates. Underground dining spots and rooftop restaurants flank endless floors of shopping. After an afternoon of credit-card swiping go next door to T.K.K. Fried Chicken (177 Zhongxiao Road, Section 4; tkkinc.com.tw). Even before the infiltration of Western fast-food chains, T.K.K. was serving its staple, fried chicken with yam wedges (105 to 125 dollars). Don’t miss the signature rice wrap: glutinous rice in poultry skin, deep-fried to crackling perfection (45 dollars).
3 p.m.
7. National Treasure
7. National Treasure
If this is your first time in Taipei, you will want to visit the National Palace Museum (221 Zhishan Road; npm.gov.tw),
one of the world’s premier museums of ancient art and cultural
artifacts (admission, 160 dollars). Much of its collection of
calligraphy, paintings, porcelain and antiquities was spirited out of
the Forbidden City in Beijing by the Nationalists, who fled the mainland
during the Communist takeover in 1948. For the more tactile visitor
yearning for something more intimate, experience the history of
papermaking at the Suho Memorial Paper Museum (68 Changan East Road,
Section 2; suhopaper.org.tw), where you can pick your own raw materials and get your hands wet making paper (admission, 180 dollars).
7 p.m.
8. Epicurean Row
8. Epicurean Row
Forage for dinner on Yongkang Street, but be warned
that if you join the impossibly long lines for shaved ice, beef noodle
soup and dumplings, you might miss the hidden gems: exotic cuisines,
charming cafes and distinctive boutiques. Come hungry and start with
classic pho in an ethereal clear broth at Thanh Ky (100 dollars; 6
Yongkang Street, Lane 6; 886-2-2322-2765). Next enjoy Genmaicha tea and
generous portions of grilled rice cakes, with toppings like strawberry
coulis and edamame purée (100 dollars), at the family-owned Mochi Mochi
Ya (16 Yongkang, Lane 4; 886-2-2391-8633). Walk off carbs exploring the
shops and then stroll over to relax in serene Daan Forest Park (1
Xinsheng South Road, Section 2). Taipei’s nod to Central Park, this
oasis from city life is home to indigenous and guest species of flora
and fauna.
10 p.m.
9. Sleepless in Taipei
9. Sleepless in Taipei
At Marquee (16-1 Xinyi Road, Section 5; marquee-taipei.com),
expats and locals mingle under chandeliers and sip high-end drinks
concocted by deft mixologists (250 dollars). Marquee also features a
serious dinner-service menu in its faux-Victorian lounges. For techno
and hip-hop, proceed to Luxy (197 Zhongxiao East Road, Section 4, 5F; luxy-taipei.com;
cover, 700 dollars). One of Taipei’s largest nightclubs, this go-to
spot becomes just as packed as the streets of Taipei. Wind down at Roxy
99 (218 Jinshan South Road, Section 2; roxy.com.tw),
a hole-in-the-wall rock and alternative club where libations flow past
sunrise (on Wednesdays before 9 p.m., two beers come free).
SUNDAY
10 a.m.
10. Got Soy Milk?
10. Got Soy Milk?
After catching a light snooze, start your morning with a Taiwanese-style
breakfast at Fuhang Doujiang (108 Zhongxiao East Road, Section 1;
886-2-2392-2175). Order shaobing youtiao, a dry-roasted flatbread dotted
with sesame and wrapped around a light cruller (50 dollars). Add an
omelet for textural contrast. The drink of choice, soy milk, is made
from scratch daily and served hot or cold, sweet or savory (20 to 30
dollars). Enjoy its nutty aroma and silken consistency as is, or use as a
dip for the shaobing youtiao. For a more mom-and-pop shop aesthetic,
visit Sihai Doujiang (232 Jinshan South, Section 2; 886-2-2395-8858) for
another morning delight, doehua: velvety soy custard and soft peanuts
glistening in a bowl of simple syrup (25 dollars).
Noon
11. Evil Spirits Begone
11. Evil Spirits Begone
Weekly visits to Hsingtian Temple (109 Minquan East Road, Section 2), on
Minquan East Road, are said to ensure career and personal success. Like
most temples in Taiwan, it is dedicated to some amalgam of religious
and folk deities. The visit begins with contributing to a plate of food
offerings; take it as an opportunity to divest yourself of leftover
snacks forbidden by airport security. At the end of long but fast-moving
lines, incense-assisted temple functionaries chase away the evil
spirits responsible for disturbances like fatigue, anorexia and
tantrums. Make the rounds as the Taiwanese do: draw a bamboo fortune,
toss wooden wedges for answers to burning “yes, no, maybe” questions,
and pray to the gods for personal and national fiscal responsibility.
Before leaving the temple, pick up a fragrant blessing bag to protect
you on your travels.
LODGING
Royal Inn Taipei (1 Nanjing West Road; www.royal-inn-taipei.com.tw) is an economical and comfortable option in the busy Zhongshan district. Doubles, 4,000 Taiwan dollars (about $140).
Just Sleep Ximen Ding (41 Zhong Hua Road, Section 1; www.justsleep.com.tw) is a slick yet moderately priced option in the old city center. Doubles, 3,900 dollars.
Ambience (64 Chang-an East Road, Section 1; ambiencehotel.com.tw) is a boutique hotel with Philippe Starck and Ferruccio Laviani furniture. Doubles, 4,600 dollars.
Touring Taipei
*****
36 Hours in Taipei, Taiwan 2008.2.29
TAIPEI, the vibrant capital of Taiwan, distills the best of what Asian cities have to offer — great street food, crackling night life, arguably the world’s best collection of Chinese art, and hot springs and hiking trails reachable by public transport. With interest in mainland China surging, Taipei — one of the most underrated tourist destinations in Asia — offers a look at a different side of China, one that escaped the deprivations of early Communist rule and the Cultural Revolution. Here is a Chinese culture (some contend that it is uniquely Taiwanese) that practices bare-knuckled democracy and has preserved traditions thousands of years old in a way that was impossible to do on the mainland.
Friday
3 p.m.
1) ANCIENT WAYS
The National Palace Museum (221 Chih-shan Road, Section 2; 886-2-2881-2021; www.npm.gov.tw/en/home.htm) is considered by many to be the finest repository of Chinese art in the world; it houses artifacts dating back to the earliest days of Chinese civilization. The collection includes oracle bones, which have the first known written Chinese ideograms, as well as ritual bronze vessels, Ming Dynasty pottery and jade sculptured into the shapes of cabbage and fatty pork.
5 p.m.
2) TOP OF THE WORLD
But enough of ancient culture, at least for now. Immerse yourself in modern Taipei by going deep into the belly of the tallest building in the world, the 1,670-foot Taipei 101 (7 Xinyi Road, Section 5; www.taipei-101.com.tw/index_en.htm). The first five floors, with stores like Armani, Louis Vuitton and Sogo, should satisfy any shopping urge. Take a high-speed elevator to the indoor and outdoor observation decks, starting on the 89th floor, for unparalleled views of Taipei and its environs. In every direction lie city blocks and avenues winding among concrete-and-glass towers, with verdant hills rising in the distance. Wisps of cloud float past the windows. Beware of vertigo.
7 p.m.
3) OYSTERS IN THE SKY
Dinner is only a few floors away. Go down to the 85th floor of Taipei 101 to feast on traditional Taiwanese dishes at Shin Yeh (886-2-8101-0185). Try the deep-fried oysters and rolls stuffed with taro and shrimp. Set dinners start at about 1,600 Taiwan dollars per person ($50.40 at 31.75 Taiwan dollars to the U.S. dollar). Be sure to make reservations well in advance, ideally several weeks before arriving.
9 p.m.
4) MARTINIS WITH MOOD
Lounge bars have popped up all over Taipei. If you’re in a mood for dessert with your drink, try the bar in the consciously hip People Restaurant (191 Anhe Road, Section 2; 886-2-2735-2288). The attitude starts even before you enter: the double doors have no handles, nor do they open automatically. Figuring out how to get in is only part of the fun. Once inside, walk through the shadowy industrial rooms and take a seat at the bar or in the lounge, where cocktails are served in large glass globes. Next, saunter down the road to Rewine (137 Anhe Road, Section 1; 886-2-2325-6658), whose head bartender has won international awards for his unique cocktails.
Saturday
6 a.m.
5) CHANNELING INNER ENERGY
If you’re heading back to your hotel at dawn, or need some fresh air early in the morning, stop in at the largest public park in the city, Da An Park. It cannot compare to New York’s Central Park in size — the width and length each stretch only a few city blocks — but the smattering of tropical foliage, along with paths meandering across a level green field, endow the park with a serene air. You can watch Taipei’s dedicated tai chi practitioners going through their moves or perhaps an elderly woman doing a sword dance.
9 a.m.
6) STEAMY MORNING
After a quick breakfast at one of Taipei’s many corner bakeries, hop on the subway, called the MRT, to the New Beitou stop, about 40 minutes from downtown. The northern town of Beitou is renowned for its hot springs resorts, some modeled after those in Japan. Walk up the hill to take a soak at one of the newest of the spas, Villa 32 (32 Zhongshan Road; 886-2-6611-8888; www.villa32.com). It has all the atmosphere of a luxury spa in a uniquely Taiwanese setting, with outdoor pools of different temperatures shielded by wooden awnings and the shade of leafy trees. Rent a room for several hours or spend the morning with other bathers in the outdoor pools, separated by gender.
1 p.m.
7) READING TEA LEAVES
Taiwanese are discerning tea-drinkers, and going to teahouses is popular here. One local favorite is De Ye Cha Chi, near the Shandao Temple MRT station (3-1 Zhen Jiang Street; 886-2-2351-1002). Jars of tea leaves sit against a wall in the quiet dining room, and guests can brew their tea in traditional pots. Try Oriental Beauty, an oolong tea with a naturally sweet taste that was supposedly given its English-language name by the Queen of England after she had a sip. Prices vary, but a pot can cost less than 300 Taiwan dollars.
3 p.m.
8) PLACATING THE SPIRITS
To get answers to weighty life questions, or just to observe traditional Taiwanese religious practices, head to Longshan Temple, on Guangzhou Street in the venerable Wanhua neighborhood of western Taipei. Built in 1738, its main altar houses a statue of Guanyin, the goddess of compassion, but many other gods — some red-faced, others long-bearded — also have their own shrines and worshipers. In the courtyard, Taiwanese burn incense and cast red, crescent-shaped pieces of wood to divine their fortunes.
5 p.m.
9) CINEMA OBSCURA
If your energy is flagging about now, sit down for coffee at the Spot, the favorite art-house cinema of many a Taipei resident (18 Zhongshan North Road, Section 2; 886-2-2511-7786). The white villa that houses the screening rooms, restaurant and bar was once the official residence of the American ambassador. It is one of the most atmospheric buildings in Taipei, redolent of colonial life in the tropics, with lush grounds that shield the villa from the street.
7 p.m.
10) ALL WRAPPED UP
There’s no avoiding Din Tai Fung, a mandatory stop on Taiwan’s restaurant scene (194 Xinyi Road, Section 2; 886-2-2321-8928). This crowded, brightly lit restaurant, with chefs rolling and stuffing dumplings in the front, specializes in xiao long bao, steamed soup dumplings. These are usually associated with Shanghainese cuisine, but the dumplings here are famous for skin that is much more delicate than those of their Shanghainese counterparts. Try the ones with pork, pork and crab meat or purely vegetables. Save room for taro dumplings as a first dessert. A full meal might cost 300 Taiwan dollars a person.
9 p.m.
11) SHAVED ICE
Head around the corner to Yongkang Street, a celebrated eating avenue, for your second dessert: a mound of shaved ice topped with fresh mango, strawberry or kiwi at Ice Monster (15 Yongkang Street). Then stroll along the Street, lined with traditional noodle shops, Japanese restaurants and sweet tofu dessert parlors.
10 p.m.
12) SMALL EATS
Taipei is as modern a city as any in Asia, but traditional night markets thrive in many neighborhoods. The biggest ones resemble beachside boardwalks, with cheek-by-jowl crowds, fun-fair games, knickknack stores selling everything from chopsticks to DVD’s and, of course, every kind of Taiwanese snack food. The liveliest markets are Raohe, by Ciyou Temple in the Songshan neighborhood; Shida, between the Guting and Taipower Building MRT stations; and Shilin, at the Jiantan MRT station.
Sunday
9 a.m.
13) INTO THE CLOUDS
Your last day? Take a bus or taxi over to Yangmingshan, the gently sloping dormant volcano that sits in a national park on Taipei’s northern edge. The rangers at the main visitor’s center can give you advice on the dozens of trails. If the weather is clear, consider walking up to Mount Cising, which at 3,674 feet is the highest summit in the greater Taipei basin. The wind-swept high meadows are covered in waves of silvergrass, and the views could well inspire you to start planning your return trip to Taipei.
The Basics
In mid-February, a quick Internet search showed that the cheapest round-trip flights from New York to Taipei for travel in early March cost $800 on Northwest Airlines (two stops) and $930 on United Airlines (one stop). You’ll pay about 1,200 Taiwan dollars ($31.80 at 31.75 Taiwan dollars to the U.S. dollar) to take a taxi from the international airport in Taipei to the city center. A shuttle bus to the main railway station, in the city center and a convenient place for subway connections, costs 120 Taiwan dollars.
Les Suites Taipei is an intimate boutique hotel that has two locations in the city (12 Ching Cheng Street; 886-2-8712-7688; and 135 Da An Road, Section 1; 886-2-8773-3799; www.suitetpe.com). Late last month, the weekend on-line rate for a double at the Da An location started at about $140 a night.
The Grand Hotel, at least architecturally, lives up to its name (1 Zhongshan North Road, Section 4; 886-2-2886-8888; www.grand-hotel.org). Built in Qing Dynasty style, it has been a centerpiece of Taipei’s luxury hotel scene for years, though the location north of the city center is somewhat inconvenient. Late last month, the weekend rate for a double started at 3,990 Taiwan dollars per night.
Christie Johnston for The New York Times
The public hot springs in Beitou, a Taipei suburb.
TAIPEI, the vibrant capital of Taiwan, distills the best of what Asian cities have to offer — great street food, crackling night life, arguably the world’s best collection of Chinese art, and hot springs and hiking trails reachable by public transport. With interest in mainland China surging, Taipei — one of the most underrated tourist destinations in Asia — offers a look at a different side of China, one that escaped the deprivations of early Communist rule and the Cultural Revolution. Here is a Chinese culture (some contend that it is uniquely Taiwanese) that practices bare-knuckled democracy and has preserved traditions thousands of years old in a way that was impossible to do on the mainland.
Friday
3 p.m.
1) ANCIENT WAYS
The National Palace Museum (221 Chih-shan Road, Section 2; 886-2-2881-2021; www.npm.gov.tw/en/home.htm) is considered by many to be the finest repository of Chinese art in the world; it houses artifacts dating back to the earliest days of Chinese civilization. The collection includes oracle bones, which have the first known written Chinese ideograms, as well as ritual bronze vessels, Ming Dynasty pottery and jade sculptured into the shapes of cabbage and fatty pork.
5 p.m.
2) TOP OF THE WORLD
But enough of ancient culture, at least for now. Immerse yourself in modern Taipei by going deep into the belly of the tallest building in the world, the 1,670-foot Taipei 101 (7 Xinyi Road, Section 5; www.taipei-101.com.tw/index_en.htm). The first five floors, with stores like Armani, Louis Vuitton and Sogo, should satisfy any shopping urge. Take a high-speed elevator to the indoor and outdoor observation decks, starting on the 89th floor, for unparalleled views of Taipei and its environs. In every direction lie city blocks and avenues winding among concrete-and-glass towers, with verdant hills rising in the distance. Wisps of cloud float past the windows. Beware of vertigo.
7 p.m.
3) OYSTERS IN THE SKY
Dinner is only a few floors away. Go down to the 85th floor of Taipei 101 to feast on traditional Taiwanese dishes at Shin Yeh (886-2-8101-0185). Try the deep-fried oysters and rolls stuffed with taro and shrimp. Set dinners start at about 1,600 Taiwan dollars per person ($50.40 at 31.75 Taiwan dollars to the U.S. dollar). Be sure to make reservations well in advance, ideally several weeks before arriving.
9 p.m.
4) MARTINIS WITH MOOD
Lounge bars have popped up all over Taipei. If you’re in a mood for dessert with your drink, try the bar in the consciously hip People Restaurant (191 Anhe Road, Section 2; 886-2-2735-2288). The attitude starts even before you enter: the double doors have no handles, nor do they open automatically. Figuring out how to get in is only part of the fun. Once inside, walk through the shadowy industrial rooms and take a seat at the bar or in the lounge, where cocktails are served in large glass globes. Next, saunter down the road to Rewine (137 Anhe Road, Section 1; 886-2-2325-6658), whose head bartender has won international awards for his unique cocktails.
Saturday
6 a.m.
5) CHANNELING INNER ENERGY
If you’re heading back to your hotel at dawn, or need some fresh air early in the morning, stop in at the largest public park in the city, Da An Park. It cannot compare to New York’s Central Park in size — the width and length each stretch only a few city blocks — but the smattering of tropical foliage, along with paths meandering across a level green field, endow the park with a serene air. You can watch Taipei’s dedicated tai chi practitioners going through their moves or perhaps an elderly woman doing a sword dance.
9 a.m.
6) STEAMY MORNING
After a quick breakfast at one of Taipei’s many corner bakeries, hop on the subway, called the MRT, to the New Beitou stop, about 40 minutes from downtown. The northern town of Beitou is renowned for its hot springs resorts, some modeled after those in Japan. Walk up the hill to take a soak at one of the newest of the spas, Villa 32 (32 Zhongshan Road; 886-2-6611-8888; www.villa32.com). It has all the atmosphere of a luxury spa in a uniquely Taiwanese setting, with outdoor pools of different temperatures shielded by wooden awnings and the shade of leafy trees. Rent a room for several hours or spend the morning with other bathers in the outdoor pools, separated by gender.
1 p.m.
7) READING TEA LEAVES
Taiwanese are discerning tea-drinkers, and going to teahouses is popular here. One local favorite is De Ye Cha Chi, near the Shandao Temple MRT station (3-1 Zhen Jiang Street; 886-2-2351-1002). Jars of tea leaves sit against a wall in the quiet dining room, and guests can brew their tea in traditional pots. Try Oriental Beauty, an oolong tea with a naturally sweet taste that was supposedly given its English-language name by the Queen of England after she had a sip. Prices vary, but a pot can cost less than 300 Taiwan dollars.
3 p.m.
8) PLACATING THE SPIRITS
To get answers to weighty life questions, or just to observe traditional Taiwanese religious practices, head to Longshan Temple, on Guangzhou Street in the venerable Wanhua neighborhood of western Taipei. Built in 1738, its main altar houses a statue of Guanyin, the goddess of compassion, but many other gods — some red-faced, others long-bearded — also have their own shrines and worshipers. In the courtyard, Taiwanese burn incense and cast red, crescent-shaped pieces of wood to divine their fortunes.
5 p.m.
9) CINEMA OBSCURA
If your energy is flagging about now, sit down for coffee at the Spot, the favorite art-house cinema of many a Taipei resident (18 Zhongshan North Road, Section 2; 886-2-2511-7786). The white villa that houses the screening rooms, restaurant and bar was once the official residence of the American ambassador. It is one of the most atmospheric buildings in Taipei, redolent of colonial life in the tropics, with lush grounds that shield the villa from the street.
7 p.m.
10) ALL WRAPPED UP
There’s no avoiding Din Tai Fung, a mandatory stop on Taiwan’s restaurant scene (194 Xinyi Road, Section 2; 886-2-2321-8928). This crowded, brightly lit restaurant, with chefs rolling and stuffing dumplings in the front, specializes in xiao long bao, steamed soup dumplings. These are usually associated with Shanghainese cuisine, but the dumplings here are famous for skin that is much more delicate than those of their Shanghainese counterparts. Try the ones with pork, pork and crab meat or purely vegetables. Save room for taro dumplings as a first dessert. A full meal might cost 300 Taiwan dollars a person.
9 p.m.
11) SHAVED ICE
Head around the corner to Yongkang Street, a celebrated eating avenue, for your second dessert: a mound of shaved ice topped with fresh mango, strawberry or kiwi at Ice Monster (15 Yongkang Street). Then stroll along the Street, lined with traditional noodle shops, Japanese restaurants and sweet tofu dessert parlors.
10 p.m.
12) SMALL EATS
Taipei is as modern a city as any in Asia, but traditional night markets thrive in many neighborhoods. The biggest ones resemble beachside boardwalks, with cheek-by-jowl crowds, fun-fair games, knickknack stores selling everything from chopsticks to DVD’s and, of course, every kind of Taiwanese snack food. The liveliest markets are Raohe, by Ciyou Temple in the Songshan neighborhood; Shida, between the Guting and Taipower Building MRT stations; and Shilin, at the Jiantan MRT station.
Sunday
9 a.m.
13) INTO THE CLOUDS
Your last day? Take a bus or taxi over to Yangmingshan, the gently sloping dormant volcano that sits in a national park on Taipei’s northern edge. The rangers at the main visitor’s center can give you advice on the dozens of trails. If the weather is clear, consider walking up to Mount Cising, which at 3,674 feet is the highest summit in the greater Taipei basin. The wind-swept high meadows are covered in waves of silvergrass, and the views could well inspire you to start planning your return trip to Taipei.
The Basics
In mid-February, a quick Internet search showed that the cheapest round-trip flights from New York to Taipei for travel in early March cost $800 on Northwest Airlines (two stops) and $930 on United Airlines (one stop). You’ll pay about 1,200 Taiwan dollars ($31.80 at 31.75 Taiwan dollars to the U.S. dollar) to take a taxi from the international airport in Taipei to the city center. A shuttle bus to the main railway station, in the city center and a convenient place for subway connections, costs 120 Taiwan dollars.
Les Suites Taipei is an intimate boutique hotel that has two locations in the city (12 Ching Cheng Street; 886-2-8712-7688; and 135 Da An Road, Section 1; 886-2-8773-3799; www.suitetpe.com). Late last month, the weekend on-line rate for a double at the Da An location started at about $140 a night.
The Grand Hotel, at least architecturally, lives up to its name (1 Zhongshan North Road, Section 4; 886-2-2886-8888; www.grand-hotel.org). Built in Qing Dynasty style, it has been a centerpiece of Taipei’s luxury hotel scene for years, though the location north of the city center is somewhat inconvenient. Late last month, the weekend rate for a double started at 3,990 Taiwan dollars per night.
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