36 Hours in Kyoto, Japan
May 09, 2014
36小時玩轉日本京都
36小時玩轉2014年05月09日
伏見稻荷大社。一座神廟。
Ko Sasaki for The New York Times
A full 36 hours, 36
days, or even 36 weeks could be spent exploring the thousands of
Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, Zen gardens, palaces, pagodas, parks
and walking paths in Kyoto, the former imperial capital of Japan. So
it’s little surprise that the most common complaint about the enchanting
city is that there are too many tourists, especially during the spring
cherry-blossom season. To avoid crowds, consider seeking out local
haunts in far-flung neighborhoods, all within reach thanks to an
extensive public transport system. You’ll quickly discover that many of
Kyoto’s most rewarding attractions can’t be found in any guidebook. At
least not yet.
遊覽日本昔日的首都——京都，走遍數千座
寺院、神社、禪意花園、宮殿、寶塔、公園與步道，36小時怎麼夠？你需要36天甚至36個星期。人們對這座美妙城市最大的不滿就是遊客太多，尤其是春天櫻
花盛開的時節，這一點不出所料。為了避開人潮，你不妨在本地較為偏遠的街區尋個住處。京都的公交四通八達，無論從哪個社區出遊都很便利。你會很快發現許多
頗值一游的風景名勝，而它們並未收錄在任何一本旅遊指南中，至少目前還沒有。
FRIDAY
星期五
1. Golden Oldies | 2 p.m.
1. 黃金懷舊經典 | 下午2點
It’s easy to bounce
from temple to temple until they all blur into a muddled mass. To
prevent this overdose, be selective and focus on a single memorable
spot, like Rengeo-in temple, commonly known as Sanjusangen-do
(admission, 600 Japanese yen, about $6 at 100 yen to the dollar). The
temple’s main hall, nearly 400 feet long, houses an unforgettable sight:
a gigantic statue of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, flanked by
1,000 human-size statues. The golden statues, each with 42 arms, carved
from Japanese cypress in the 12th and 13th centuries, still look
immaculate.
在不同的寺院進進出出，它們在你腦中的印
象很快會模糊難辨。為了防止過量旅遊引發的副作用，你需要精心篩選目的地，專註於某個值得一游的最佳景點，比如蓮華王院，俗稱三十三間堂（門票600日
元，約合6美元。1美元約合100日元）。該寺院的大殿將近400英尺長，風景令人難忘：一尊巨大的觀音（佛教中的慈悲女神）雕像，兩側是1000座真人
大小的雕像。每一尊金燦燦的雕像都有42支手臂，是12至13世紀用日本柏木雕刻而成，至今看上去仍完美無瑕。
2. Kyoto via Copenhagen | 4 p.m.
2. 哥本哈根與京都的融合 | 下午4點
Adapting ancient
crafts to contemporary tastes is a skill some local artisans have
perfected through a venture called Japan Handmade. The project is a
collaboration between the Danish design studio OeO and six small
Kyoto-area companies, each rooted in a traditional craft, from
woodworking to metal-knitting. One of the participants, Hosoo, founded
in 1688, produces luxurious fabrics traditionally used to make kimonos.
Today the patterned silks also adorn upholstered armchairs and high-top
sneakers (a collaboration with the fashion designer Mihara Yasuhiro).
Find these modern creations and Japan Handmade’s range of covetable
items — glazed porcelain trays, cypress-wood Champagne buckets — at the
new House of Hosoo showroom in Nishijin, the city’s historic textile
district. Because visits are by appointment only, exploring the tatami
mat rooms feels like touring a private museum.
讓古代工藝適應當代品味，一些本地工匠通
過日本手作(Japan
Handmade)項目，將這項絕技磨練得越發純熟了。日本手作是丹麥OeO設計工作室和京都六家株式會社的合作項目，它們各自專註於一項傳統工藝，比如
木工或金屬編織。其中，細尾株式會社(Hosoo)始建於1688年，專註於製造精美的和服專用織物。而今這些花紋細密的絲綢也可用於家居裝飾和高端運動
鞋（與時尚品牌三原康裕合作）。到京都歷史悠久的傳統紡織基地西陣織，走進新近開張的「細尾家」陳列館，你會發現無數現代創意與日本工藝完美融合的藝術品
——釉面瓷碟、柏木香檳桶……必須預約才能入內，當你穿行於一個個鋪有榻榻米的房間，感覺彷彿在遊覽私家博物館。
細尾家。
Ko Sasaki for The New York Times
3. Chicken Dinner | 6:30 p.m.
3. 雞肉美餐 | 傍晚6:30
Most locals don’t
blow their yen on outrageously priced kaiseki dinners, and neither
should you. Instead, secure a seat at Hitomi, a casual yakitori
restaurant that is beloved for its warm service and delicious grilled
things-on-sticks. Bar seats afford front-row views of the smoking grill,
where every part of the chicken, beak to tail, is cooked with care.
Don’t miss the tsukune (ground chicken “meatball”), crisp kawa (skin)
and succulent momo (chicken thigh) seasoned with nothing but a pinch of
salt. Dinner for two, about 5,000 yen.
大部分本地人不會把錢揮霍在奢侈的懷石料
理上，你也不必。你可以到輕鬆休閑的日式雞肉燒烤店「瞳」找個座位，它貼心的服務與美味的烤肉深受歡迎。店內前排的座位佔盡優勢，可清清楚楚地看到煙氣瀰
漫的烤肉架，雞身上從喙到尾巴的每一個部位小心翼翼地在火上炙烤。不要錯過雞肉丸、酥脆的雞皮和豐美多汁的雞腿，除了鹽什麼調料都沒加哦。雙人餐大約
5000日元。
4. Rebirth of the Cool | 9 p.m.
4. 酷炫重生 | 晚上9點
After dinner, soak
up the smooth sounds and surroundings at Yamatoya, a longstanding jazz
bar that reopened in 2013 after a yearlong renovation. No detail here is
overlooked, from the classy décor — antique tables, glossy red bar — to
the hand-cut ice. Then there’s the music. Hearing a Django Reinhardt
record played on the superb audio system — Garrard 401 turntable,
vintage Vitavox Klipschorn speakers — is like seeing new colors for the
first time. And if the rich, room-filling sound doesn’t bowl you over,
the owner’s collection of over 5,000 records surely will.
晚餐之後，在「大和屋」酒吧柔和的音樂與
景物中沉醉吧。這家經營多年的爵士酒吧在長達一年的翻修之後，2013年重新開業。從高雅的裝飾（古典的餐桌、閃亮的紅色吧台）到手工切割的冰塊，這裡的
每一處細節都不容忽視。還有音樂。頂級音響系統（加拉德401唱片轉盤、經典Vitavox
Klipschorn喇叭）播放着三指琴魔姜戈·萊因哈特(Django
Reinhardt)的吉他曲，讓初次造訪的顧客眼前一亮。如果這回味無窮的美妙音樂都沒能鎮住你，那麼當你聽到店主收藏了5000多張唱片，一定會驚
訝。
蓋亞咖啡館。
Ko Sasaki for The New York Times
5. Discreet Drinks | 11 p.m.
5. 小心斟酌 | 晚上11點
Spend the rest of
the night hopping to increasingly discreet bars. Start at Cafe Gaea, a
laid-back neighborhood hangout where you can while away an hour chatting
with the affable manager, Rei. Then slip down the narrow path leading
to the sliding door of Bar Bunkyu. The smiling bartender Nao befriends
all who enter the austere space, where a few stools surround a large
slab of textured wood that doubles as both bar and communal table. Close
out the night at the nameless bar usually referred to as Kazu’s, after
its owner. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you open an unmarked door on
the third floor of a dingy back-alley building and step into darkness —
only a few flickering candles illuminate the bottle-lined bar. A
hypnotic soundtrack, underground atmosphere and 5 a.m. closing time make
this an ideal last stop for those who can find it.
剩下的夜晚，不斷地從一個私密酒吧轉到另
一個更為私密的酒吧。從蓋亞咖啡館開始吧，你可以在這個慵懶的地方消磨一個小時與溫和的經理凌（音譯）聊天。然後溜出門，沿着一條狹窄的小巷走到文久吧的
推拉門前。踏進這家樸素酒吧的任何顧客都會受到笑容滿面的侍應生奈央（音譯）友善的優待。室內的幾張凳子圍着一張有天然花紋的巨大木板桌，它扮演着吧台與
公用餐桌的雙重角色。夜晚的最後一個去處？不妨選擇無名的和家酒吧（因為店主名叫「和」）。走進陋巷，來到一座昏暗小樓的三層，推開一道沒有特殊標記的房
門，就走進了這間酒吧。擺滿酒瓶的吧台上只有幾支微光搖曳的蠟燭。催人入夢的音樂，幽暗的空氣，加上凌晨五點才關門，所以只要找到它，你就會發現作為夜晚
的最後一站，此處非常理想。
SATURDAY
星期六
6. Cafe Culture | 10 a.m.
6. 咖啡文化 | 上午10點
Temporarily
transport yourself to an earlier era with a morning coffee at
Rokuyousha, an old-school cafe with wood-paneled walls, vinyl seats,
olive-hued tile and ceramic ashtrays atop every table. It’s easy to walk
right past this relaxed bi-level coffee shop, but the many residents
who stop in to read the newspaper, have a smoke and snack on homemade
cake doughnuts know you shouldn’t.
在六曜社珈琲店喝杯咖啡，你可暫時回到過去的時光。木板牆壁、塑料座椅、橄欖色的瓦片，每張桌上都擺着陶瓷煙灰缸。雖然這家氣氛慵懶的兩層咖啡館並不起眼，但許多本地人都會踱進來讀報紙、抽煙、吃幾塊家常烘焙的蛋糕式甜甜圈，因為他們深知，這個地方不容錯過。
7. Funny Faces | 11:30 a.m.
7. 滑稽的臉龐 | 上午11:30
Though many tour
the temples that dot the Arashiyama district on the western edge of the
city, few find their way to a fascinating site in the nearby foothills.
At Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, a humble Buddhist temple with roots dating back to
the eighth century, the hillsides are lined with over 1,000
moss-covered rakan statues (representing disciples of Buddha) whose
origins are considerably more modern. In the 1980s and ‘90s, hundreds of
people learned to stone-carve and donated the figures to support the
temple’s reconstruction. The result was this wide-ranging collection of
statues bearing entertaining expressions, from a tennis-racquet-wielding
figure to a pair of jolly drinking buddies. Find and imitate your
favorites. Admission, 300 yen.
儘管很多人曾經去京都城市西部邊緣嵐山地
帶星羅棋布的寺院內遊覽，但附近山麓有個迷人的地方卻很少被人發現。簡陋的愛宕念仏寺歷史可追溯至公元8世紀，而山坡上1000多尊長滿青苔的羅漢（佛教
門徒）像，年代卻毫不久遠。在20世紀八九十年代，為了支援寺院的重建，數百個初學石雕的愛好者將自己的人像作品捐了出來。結果這組雕像形態各異，妙趣橫
生，有揮舞網球拍的運動健兒，也有歡笑對飲的好兄弟。去找找自己最愛的雕像並模仿他們的動作吧。門票300日元。
松籟庵的佳肴。
Ko Sasaki for The New York Times
8. Tofu and Bamboo | 1:30 p.m.
8. 豆腐與竹林 | 下午1:30
Meditate on the
subtlety of flavors during a meal at Syouraian, a restaurant in
Arashiyama that showcases tofu, a Kyoto specialty, in various forms.
Deep in the woods with views over the Oi River, the tranquil tatami mat
dining room is a harmonious backdrop for the beautifully presented
dishes, from a silken tofu appetizer adorned with a single dot of bean
paste to fried agedashi tofu in broth topped with quivering shavings of
dried bonito (4,600 yen for eight courses). After lunch, stroll through
the nearby bamboo forest, where a path courses beneath the swaying
stalks.
去松籟庵餐廳，在豐富微妙的美味中沉醉
吧。它位於嵐山，特色菜是京都特產的各式豆腐。餐廳位於密林深處，俯瞰大堰川的風景。寧靜的室內鋪着榻榻米，與品相優美的菜肴相得益彰，柔滑的豆腐開胃菜
上配一點豆醬，肉湯中的炸豆腐頂上鋪着一層顫巍巍的干鰹魚末（八道菜，共4600日元）。午餐之後，走進左近的竹林，沿着曲折的小徑在搖曳的竹影中漫步。
9. Design Shops | 4:30 p.m.
9. 工藝品店 | 下午4:30
At Kyoto Design
House, a refined shop occupying the ground floor of a spacious Tadao
Ando-designed building, browse antique hair combs perhaps worn by
long-gone geisha, black lacquered iPhone cases adorned with gold foil,
and business-card holders made from Nishijin fabrics. More contemporary
artisan crafts are for sale at Kohchosai Kosuga, a nearby shop filled
with bamboo designs that will ignite a desire to outfit your entire
kitchen with everything from elegantly simple serving plates and rice
scoops to beautiful woven baskets and trays.
精美的京都設計館位於建築大師安藤忠雄設
計的一座大樓的一層，在這裡，你可以見到早已過世的藝妓用過的古董梳、金箔裝飾的黑漆iPhone殼及用西陣織布料精製的名片夾。鐘意當代工藝品的，可去
附近的公長齋小菅，店內的竹藝品會讓你恨不得將整個廚房裝飾一新。從優雅簡潔的上菜盤、飯勺到漂亮的竹籃與竹編托盤，應有盡有。
京都設計館。
Ko Sasaki for The New York Times
10. Deep-Fried Dinner | 8 p.m.
10. 油炸美食 | 晚上8點
Kushiage, the
cooking style of deep-frying food on skewers, is an art form at Kushi
Tanaka, a cozy restaurant on a dead-end lane. The chef’s 30-plus years
of experience are evident as he plucks skewers out of the fryer and
presents them to the dozen or so diners squeezed around the wooden
U-shaped counter. A recent 20-piece feast included bites of deep-fried
mochi, mackerel, shiitake, kabocha, tender ginkgo nuts and an oozy quail
egg wrapped in bacon. The set menu takes the guesswork out of ordering
and costs 3,800 yen per person.
炸串是指將油炸過的食物串在簽子上，而溫
馨的田中炸串餐館（位於一條死胡同內）將炸串升華成了藝術。店內的大廚已有30餘年的業內經驗，他信心十足地把簽子上炸好的美味擼下來，分給圍坐在U型木
桌邊的十來個顧客。最近的二十樣套餐包括油炸麻糬、鯖魚、香菇、南瓜、鮮白果仁和用培根包裹的溏心鵪鶉蛋。套餐讓顧客免於點餐與猜測之苦，費用大概人均
3800日元。
11. Less-Strange Brew | 11 p.m.
11. 不甚陌生的酒 | 晚上11點
Though craft beer
is slowly gaining a foothold in Japan, it’s still a relative rarity in
Kyoto. To taste some ji-biru, or domestic microbrews, walk a few blocks
west to Bungalow, a 10-tap craft beer bar that opened in 2012. There’s
comfortable seating upstairs, but service is better at the streetside
standing bar. A wider selection is found at Wachi, a fourth-floor
izakaya that recently had Iwate Kura Oyster Stout on tap and a fridge
stocked with bottles from Kiuchi Brewery, Baird Brewing Company, and
other Japanese craft breweries.
精釀啤酒雖然正緩慢地贏得日本人的歡心，
但在京都仍然略嫌陌生。你可以去品嘗日本的微釀啤酒——地啤酒。向西走過幾個街區，到達平房(Bungalow)，這家2012年開業的精釀啤酒屋有十個
龍頭。樓上的座位很舒適，但樓下臨街的立式酒吧里服務更好。四樓的「和知」居酒屋裡藏酒更為豐富，最近開始不間斷供應岩手庫拉牡蠣酒，冰箱里冷藏的酒則包
括木內酒造、拜爾德釀酒公司的產品以及其他日本精釀酒。
SUNDAY
星期日
12. Torii Tunnel | 8 a.m.
12. 鳥居隧道 | 上午8點
Get up early for a
peaceful trek to the top of Mount Inari on trails that snake through
thousands of vermilion torii, the traditional gates that usually mark
the entrance to Shinto shrines. Starting from Fushimi Inari Taisha, a
shrine at the base of the mountain dedicated to the Shinto kami (spirit)
of rice and prosperity, ascend the path passing under torii spaced so
closely together that it sometimes feels like walking through a tunnel.
To scale the summit and return down the winding wooded trails, allow two
to three hours.
早點起床去爬稻荷山，蜿蜒至山頂的清幽小
路穿過朱紅的千本鳥居（鳥居是日本傳統的神社入口）。山腳的伏見稻荷大社敬奉神道教主管稻米與財富的神靈，從這裡上山，一路上穿過數千道鳥居排列得如此密
集，有時你會恍然覺得自己在隧道中行走。登上山頂再沿着綠樹成蔭的曲折山路下山，大概要2至3個小時。
13. Suntory Time | Noon
13. 在三得利的時光 | 正午
Head southwest of
Kyoto to pay homage to the Suntory Yamazaki Distillery, the birthplace
of Japanese whiskey. Free hourlong tours explain the distillation
process, from malting to mashing to fermentation, and culminate with a
sampling of Yamazaki single-malt whiskey with soda. (Reservations
required; English audio guides are provided.) Afterward, browse the
bottles that line the shelves of the on-site “whiskey library” and visit
the tasting counter, which pours samples of top-notch blends and single
malts, as well as limited-edition whiskeys available only at the
distillery.
直奔京都的西南部，去日本威士忌的發源地
三得利山崎蒸餾所獻上一份敬意。大約一小時的免費遊覽有導遊講解，從麥粒發芽、打漿到發酵，詳細介紹造酒工藝，最後，你可品嘗一杯和着蘇打的單一麥芽威士
忌，遊覽也因此到達最美妙的頂點。（必須預訂；有英語導遊。）然後去現場的「威士忌珍藏館」瀏覽成排酒架上的一隻只酒瓶，走向品酒櫃檯，工作人員會為你斟
一杯：有若干頂級美酒的混合佳釀和單一麥芽威士忌，也有該酒廠獨家製造的限量版威士忌。
THE DETAILS
實用信息
1. Rengeo-in temple, 657 Sanjusangendomawari, Higashiyama-ku; sanjusangendo.jp.
1. 蓮華王院， 東山區 三十三間堂回町657; sanjusangendo.jp.
2. House of Hosoo, 752 Bisyamon-cho, Kamigyo-ku; hosoo-kyoto.com.
2. 細尾家(House of Hosoo)，上京區毗沙門町752; hosoo-kyoto.com.
3. Hitomi, 96 Okiku-cho, Sakyo-ku; 81-75-771-7818.
3. 瞳，96 Okiku-cho, 左京區; 81-75-771-7818.
4. Yamatoya, 25 Shogoin Sanno-cho, Sakyo-ku; jazz-yamatoya.com.
4. 大和屋，25 Shogoin Sanno-cho, 左京區; jazz-yamatoya.com.
5. Cafe Gaea, 18 Okazaki Tokusei-cho, Sakyo-ku; 81-75-752-4194. Bar Bunkyu, 534 Ebisu-cho, Nakagyo-ku; barbunkyu.jimdo.com/english. Kazu’s, 309-4 Bizenjima-cho, Nakagyo-ku.
5. 蓋亞咖啡館，18 Okazaki Tokusei-cho, 左京區; 81-75-752-4194. 文久吧, 534 Ebisu-cho, 中京區; barbunkyu.jimdo.com/english. 和家, 309-4 Bizenjima-cho, 中京區.
6. Rokuyousha, 36 Daikoku-cho, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-221-3820.
6. 六曜社珈琲店，36 Daikoku-cho, 中京區; 81-75-221-3820.
7. Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, 2-5 Sagatoriimoto Fukatani-cho, Ukyo-ku; otagiji.com.
7. 愛宕念仏寺，右京區嵯峨鳥居本深谷町2-5; otagiji.com.
8. Syouraian, Sagakamenoo-cho, Ukyo-ku; syouraian.jp.
8. 松籟庵，Sagakamenoo-cho, 右京區; syouraian.jp.
9. Kyoto Design House, 105 Fukunaga-cho, Nakagyo-ku; kyoto-dh.com/en. Kohchosai Kosuga, 74 Nakajima-cho, Nakagyo-ku; kohchosai.co.jp.
9. 京都設計館，105 Fukunaga-cho, 中京區; kyoto-dh.com/en. 公長齋小菅, 74 Nakajima-cho, 中京區; kohchosai.co.jp.
10. Kushi Tanaka, 310-10 Uradeyama-cho, Nakagyo-ku; kushitanaka.com.
10. 田中炸串，310-10 Uradeyama-cho, 中京區; kushitanaka.com.
11. Bungalow, 15 Kashiwaya-cho, Shimogyo-ku; 81-75-256-8205. Wachi, 571 Obiya-cho, Nakagyo-ku; wachi.info.
11. 平房(Bungalow)，15 Kashiwaya-cho, 下京區; 81-75-256-8205. 和知, 571 Obiya-cho, 中京區; wachi.info.
12. Mount Inari/Fushimi Inari Taisha, 68 Fukakusa Yabunouchi-cho, Fushimi-ku;inari.jp.
12. 稻荷山/伏見稻荷大社，伏見區深草藪之內町68番地; inari.jp.
13. Suntory Yamazaki Distillery, 5-2-1 Yamazaki, Shimamoto-cho, Mishima-gun, Osaka; suntory.com/factory/yamazaki.
13. 三得利山崎蒸餾所，大阪府三島郡島本町山崎5-2-1; suntory.com/factory/yamazaki.
LODGING
住宿
Hotel Mume (261 Umemoto-cho, Higashiyama-ku; hotelmume.jp)
is one of the few boutique hotels in Kyoto, so plan far in advance to
reserve one of the seven rooms, each stylishly furnished with beautiful
antiques. Special details range from a daily happy hour to personalized
maps and sightseeing recommendations. Doubles from 22,000 yen (about
$220).
梅酒店 (261
Umemoto-cho, Higashiyama-ku;
hotelmume.jp)是京都僅有的幾家精品酒店之一，有七間客房，所以訂房要儘早。每間客房都時尚華麗，擺着漂亮的古董。特色包括每日歡樂一小時、
私人訂製地圖及觀光推薦等。雙人房起價22000日元（大約220美元）。
The Royal Park Hotel the Kyoto (74 Nakajima-cho, Nakagyo-ku; rph-the.co.jp/en/kyoto)
has a confusing name but a prime location and affordable rates. The 172
rooms are basic and snug but comfortable. There’s also an attractive
ground-floor bar and free Wi-Fi. Doubles from 10,400 yen.
京都皇家公園酒店(74 Nakajima-cho, Nakagyo-ku; rph-the.co.jp/en/kyoto)不要被這個名字誤導，它位於黃金地段，但價格適中。172間客房都簡潔緊湊卻又舒適。還有迷人的一樓酒吧和免費wifi。雙人房起價10400日元。
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翻譯：蘭珩
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