Adelaide is Australia’s unsung city, a perfectly pretty destination on the southern coast, whose many charms are regularly eclipsed by the more glamorous Sydney and Melbourne. Most tourists who do fly into Adelaide are more often than not merely availing themselves of its airport en route to nearby Kangaroo Island or South Australia’s 18 celebrated wine regions, which have made Adelaide Australia’s wine capital. But these days the city is shining as a destination in its own right, and those who do decide to stay are in for a treat: Adelaide has elegant architecture and colonial beauty to spare, and a revival of independent cafes and bars and a booming arts scene have lately given the city a creative edge. So go ahead and fly through Adelaide on the way to its scenic neighbors — just make sure you spend a few days exploring the city as well.
On the Torrens River, which runs through the city. David Maurice Smith for The New York Times Friday1.CASUAL LUNCH, 2 P.M.
Perhaps inspired by Melbourne, whose narrow lanes are known for their hip cafes and boutiques, Adelaide’s side streets are having something of a moment. Experience the vibe on Ebenezer Place, which is lined with an eclectic mix of businesses; last year, a popular suburban establishment, Parwana Afghan Kitchen, opened a sister restaurant, the pint-size Kutchi Deli Parwana. This branch is daubed in bright shades of turquoise and serves delicious, reasonably priced Afghan street-food favorites: lamb mantu, or dumplings (13 Australian dollars, or $9.50 at 1.36 Australian to the U.S. dollar), eggplant borani with yogurt sauce (13 dollars), and bolani turnovers stuffed with pumpkin or minced lamb (10 dollars). On a sunny day, order a few dishes and take a seat on the sidewalk to soak in the atmosphere.2.ARTY AFTERNOON, 3 P.M.
The Art Gallery of South Australia houses an expansive collection in its stately building on Adelaide’s North Terrace, a leafy boulevard lined with grand monuments and University of Adelaide buildings. Inside, admission is free to most exhibitions, and you can browse Australian, Aboriginal and European art, and even a small Islamic gallery. If you’re in town early in the month, you’re in luck: The museum stays open until 9 p.m. on First Fridays, with a festive program of live music, guided tours and talks with featured artists in the evening.3.PEDESTRIAN PROMENADE, 5 P.M.
Adelaide’s main promenade is Rundle Mall, a long pedestrianized artery, home to the city’s best shopping and restaurants. Take a leisurely stroll, but bypass the department stores and chain restaurants in favor of stops at the stylish Felici Espresso Bar, the housewares shop One Rundle Trading Company, the Australian design emporium JamFactory and the original outpost of Australia’s family-owned Haigh’s Chocolates, set in a Gothic heritage building at Beehive Corner that looks like a confection itself.4.HANDMADE HAVEN, 7 P.M.
For a souvenir that reflects Adelaide’s creative spirit, pop into Urban Cow Studio. Its rooms have creaky floorboards splattered with paint and are cluttered with jewelry, housewares, canvases and more, all handmade in Adelaide by more than 150 local artists and artisans. Look out for funky Elodie Barker ceramic mugs (44 dollars each) and hand-poured soy candles in coconut, espresso and mango papaya scents (30 dollars for medium, 40 dollars for large sizes), or browse exhibits by local artists. The location also houses the Howling Owl cafe and the comedy club Rhino Room.5.OUT OF AFRICA, 8 P.M.
One of the city’s top chefs is an import from South Africa, and since he opened Africola in November 2014, Duncan Welgemoed has been bringing the flavors of his home country to Australia. Africola’s interiors are a nod to the shebeens (taverns) of the townships, with colorful murals, repurposed Coke bottles (here doubling as chile-sauce dispensers), bright fabrics and plastic menus illustrated with Mandela motifs. This kitschy space serves as a theater for Mr. Welgemoed’s modern riffs on traditional South African cuisine: a braai (barbecue) plate (32 dollars) with boerewors sausages, peri-peri chicken, pap (maize porridge) and sheba (tomato sauce); bunny chow (curried lamb in a bun, 10 dollars); or the vegetable of the moment, roasted whole cauliflower, served here with bread and black garlic (20 dollars).The Adelaide Botanic Garden. David Maurice Smith for The New York Times Saturday6.FRESH BREAKFAST, 9 A.M.
Dating back to 1869, the sprawling, covered Adelaide Central Market isone of Australia’s oldest markets and one of the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. Watch hordes of local chefs — both of the professional and home-cooking variety — contemplating organic fruits, fresh fish and poultry, and wheels of cheese from among 80 stalls, then piece together a hearty breakfast from a host of cafes and bakeries that have set up shop here: tapas at Comida Catering Co., Algerian fare at Le Souk and smoothies at Tony’s Juice Bar. You can eat well for less than 20 dollars.7.GARDEN VARIETY, 11 A.M.
In a city full of parks, the Adelaide Botanic Garden (free) is a particularly lovely one. Amateur horticulturists will want to meander through the lush habitats: a garden of health featuring 2,500 plants known for their healing properties, an international rose garden with 5,000 species, and an Australian native garden dedicated to regional flora. If the verdant environs can’t sustain your interest, head to the nearby Cellar Door at the National Wine Center of Australia to sample the finest bottles from nearby wine regions including Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale.8.BEACH BREAK, 2 P.M.
An easy 25-minute tram ride (5.20 dollars) takes you to Glenelg, a seaside enclave on Holdfast Bay. The site of the first European settlement in mainland Australia, dating back to 1836, it’s a lovely place to while away an afternoon. Hop off the tram at its terminus at Moseley Square, a plaza framed by historic brick buildings, stout palm trees and the 1875 former town hall and clock tower that now house the Bay Discovery Center. Have a juicy chicken gyro (12 dollars) at Barakah Pizza & Kebab House, in the old Post Office building; churros (8 dollars) at St. Louis House of Fine Ice Cream & Dessert; and coffee or a cocktail at the stylish new Moseley Bar & Kitchen, where seating options include swings suspended from the ceiling and behemoth wicker thrones. Work it all off with a stroll along the pier — Adelaide’s setting on the western edge of a peninsula means that despite being in southern Australia, Glenelg counts a stunning sunset among its charms.9.STREET EATS, 7 P.M.
Couldn’t get a booking at Jock Zonfrillo’s Orana, or aren’t in the mood for a formal, drawn-out tasting menu? Don’t fret — Adelaide’s most celebrated fine-dining restaurant has a rebellious younger sister downstairs. At the laid-back, cafeteria-style Street ADL, Mr. Zonfrillo plies his spins on global street-food favorites. Grab a spot at a communal table and order barbecue lamb ribs (32 dollars), fiery chicken skewers (26 dollars), or two adventurous takes on a classic — croc dog (crocodile, potato skins, curried tomato sauce) or hop dog (kangaroo, jalapeños, chipotle mayo) — for 11 dollars each. It’s a far cry from the inventive modern Australian cuisine being served in the intimate dining room at Orana, but the boisterous vibe is livelier, and you won’t be shelling out for the 155-dollar set menu (295 dollars with wine) upstairs.The bar at Jock Zonfrillo’s Street ADL. David Maurice Smith for The New York Times 10.COCKTAIL HOUR, 9 P.M.
Ever since its buzzed-about January opening, 2KW has made itself a requisite stop on Adelaide’s night-life scene. It’s not hard to see why: Aperch atop the 2 King William Street building guarantees panoramic views. Aside from an extensive wine list, choose from creative 18-dollarcocktails like Les Burdett (rye, black tea, cherry, orange) or Britannia Roundabout (vodka, blueberries, anise). For a more intimate evening, pop into another newcomer nearby: The cozy Bibliotheca Bar & Book Exchange, tucked away in the Gresham Street laneway, has local wines for 10 dollars a glass, literary-themed drinks like the Hemingway Daiquiri (rum, cherry, lime, grapefruit, 18 dollars) and walls lined with books that patrons are welcome to swap.Breakfast at Hey Jupiter. David Maurice Smith for The New York Times Sunday11.MORNING GLORY, 9 A.M.
Brekkie is serious business in Oz, and you’ll find one of Adelaide’s best morning menus at Hey Jupiter. Start off with a refreshing apple-mint-watermelon juice (7.50 dollars) before ordering the baked eggs cocotte with potato rosti, mushrooms, cheese and tomato (16.50 dollars) or the Belgian waffle with berries, mint and vanilla labneh (15.50 dollars). High ceilings make the petite cafe seem larger than it is; walls have cheery floral wallpaper and are adorned with gilded mirrors and vintage posters with a sci-fi bent. Colorful tables spill out onto Ebenezer Place.12.A SPORTING AFFAIR, 1 P.M.
The 53,500-seat Adelaide Oval was built in the 1870s, and is hailed asone of the most revered cricket grounds in the world. It’s also home turf for the Adelaide Crows, the city’s Australian Football League (A.F.L.) team. While there are a few different ways for tourists to visit the stadium — dinner at the fine-dining Hill of Grace restaurant or a 90-minute guided tour (22 dollars) — what better way to experience the hallowed setting than at an actual match? Cricket might be a bit dull for some American tastes, but Aussie Rules Football is a spectacle with 18 players per team, aggressive moves that make American football look like a friendly round of hopscotch, and loyalist fans who take the game very seriously. An afternoon at an A.F.L. match is an unrivaled adrenaline-fueled experience.- LodgingThe Mayfair Hotel (45 King William Street, 61-8-8210-8888; mayfairhotel.com.au) opened its doors in January in the historic former Colonial Mutual Life building, with 170 contemporary rooms in muted grays and blues and spacious subway-tiled bathrooms. While the hotel has many merits, including a roof deck and Bethany Finn’s Mayflower restaurant, its main advantage is the location: It’s across the street from Beehive Corner and Rundle Mall, walking distance to many of Adelaide’s popular laneways, and has bus and tram stops out front to take you farther afield. Rates from 189 Australian dollars (about $138)For a more quirky feel, check in to the Franklin Boutique Hotel (92 Franklin Street; 61-8-8410-0036; thefranklinhotel.com.au), which has seven petite rooms tucked away above a pub. The 19th-century building still has plenty of character intact — some rooms even have original stained-glass windows — while interiors were given a modern update: sleek black walls, light fixtures made from milk crates, and an abundance of vivid artwork. Rates from 150 dollars ($110).
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