Saturday
10 a.m. Commune with cats
Legend has it that maneki-neko, the waving cat statues that welcome customers to stores and restaurants, first appeared at Gotokuji Temple. Hop on the two-car train of the Tokyu-Setagaya light rail line to get there: The route’s final leg winds through humble suburbs and gives a glimpse of how middle class Japanese live. You’ll see lingerie and futon covers fluttering on poles set out on the balconies, for example (many families still don’t have dryers). At the 15th-century Buddhist temple, thousands of cats in various sizes cram wooden shelves around the main building, some inked with messages left by visitors. Amble through the peaceful cemetery, pause by the pagoda and admire whatever is in bloom.
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