沈榮欽 不止北約，我的母校 INSEAD 剛創校時，也是借皇宮上課，後來教室蓋好，才遷回去。。Fontainebleau (原意是美麗泉水，徐志摩的翻譯「芳丹薄露」已是絕頂上乘，但是朱自清的翻譯「楓丹白露」，兼顧音義與美麗，更是神來一筆。)楓丹白露森林發生大火，火勢猛烈，延燒逾 800 公頃，讓我覺得頗為心疼。
沈榮欽。楓丹白露森林發生大火，火勢猛烈，延燒逾 800 公頃，讓我覺得頗為心疼。
我是在這個小鎮讀博士的，當時租的房子就在楓丹白露宮旁，相隔不過 10 幾公尺。在很長的一段時間裡，我都是在楓丹白露宮的庭院吃早餐，因為只要參觀內部才需要門票，因此除了人滿為患的週末之外，整個皇宮曾經是我最美麗的用餐地點，雖然那裡的孔雀和天鵝也吃了不少我的早餐。
楓丹白露源自 Fontainebleau，原意是美麗泉水，徐志摩的翻譯「芳丹薄露」已是絕頂上乘，但是朱自清的翻譯「楓丹白露」，兼顧音義與美麗，更是神來一筆。
和羅浮宮與凡爾賽宮的富麗堂皇不同，楓丹白露宮的清新脫俗完全是法國宮殿的另一種美感，因為它最早是路易七世間的狩獵行宮。到了文藝復興時代，弗朗索瓦一世（François I）拆除舊城堡，聘請義大利大師進行法式文藝復興風格的改建，才開始為人所重視。達文西、羅索、普利馬蒂喬等藝術家也在此創作出融合義大利與法國風格的「楓丹白露派」藝術。
直到亨利四世大興土木，才有今日見到的原貌雛形。這是拿破崙和情人最喜歡的宮殿，稱其為「國王真正的住所」，視之為靈魂故鄉，斥巨資重新裝修。
1814 年，拿破崙被迫在此簽署退位詔書，並在馬蹄形階梯前向他的近衛軍發表了動人的告別演說。
我最常逛的楓丹白露宮的花園也大有來頭，是路易十四的御用園藝師André Le Nôtre 與皇家建築師 Louis Le Vau 聯合打造，後來拿破崙與弗朗索瓦一世又加入英國與義大利風格，才有今日美如心靈故鄉的花園所在。就是因為這種「混血」（法式、英式與義式）風格，才讓楓丹白露宮與眾不同。
更驚人的是，上世紀 50-60 年代，楓丹白露宮曾經是盟軍中歐司令部（AFCENT）和空軍司令部（AAFCE，AIRCENT）的所在地，直到後來法國擁有了自己的核武器，戴高樂總統不願北約的核武器繼續部署在法國領土上，才將司令部轉移。因為NATO 將軍事總部設於此，所以楓丹白露宮牆外還殘留有「NATO」的標記。當初是怎麼想到將核武發射權設在這個如詩如畫的所在，萬一蘇聯攻擊，不就連帶損失一座歷史古蹟嗎？實在令人想不透。
不止北約，我的母校 INSEAD 剛創校時，也是借皇宮上課，後來教室蓋好，才遷回去。這個網頁上的照片，就是攝於當時。
INSEAD 之所以建校於楓丹白露，就是因為它不在巴黎，但又在巴黎（離巴黎很近）之故，基於同樣的原因，這裡也成為文人騷客避開巴黎必經之所在，例如寫實派的創始畫家，就是因為遭到巴黎浪漫派的排擠，不滿出走後紛紛轉到楓丹白露，匯聚成巴比松畫派，米勒的拾穗就是在此創作，最終為印象派打下基礎。
所以楓丹白露宮之所以存在，正是因為楓丹白露森林太過精彩，成為法國皇家狩獵場所之故，直到今日，都還是健行、騎馬、攀岩之所在。博士班下午讀完書後，同學們都會相約到楓丹白露森林慢跑，往事歷歷在目，如今聽聞楓丹白露森林大火，心中感到無限可惜。
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Howard Chang Fontainebleau一詞意為「美麗的泉水」。楓丹白露的居民被稱為「Bellifontains」。楓丹白露森林是法國最美麗的森林之一, 橡樹、櫪樹、白樺等各種針葉樹密密層層，宛若一片碩大無比的綠色地毯。 秋季來臨， 樹葉漸漸交換顏色，紅白相間譯名為「楓丹白露」。楓丹白露雖然是按發音譯成的中文名字, 但是和香榭麗舍大街一樣, 是翻譯史上難得的神來之筆。象「香榭麗舍」一樣，「楓丹白露」這個譯名會讓人不自覺地陷入無盡的美麗遐想。思海里有樹影的搖曳，有清秋的薄露，有季節的轉換，有時光的永恆……不知這 個美麗的中文譯名是誰賦予它的，但無論它是徐志摩筆下的「芳丹薄羅」，還是朱自清紙上的「楓丹白露」，它永遠指的都是一個地方，一個和它的名字一樣美的地方。 可以說「芳丹薄羅」這個譯音更較「楓丹白露」近似於法語的原始發音，但是又有哪種譯名更能美過「楓丹白露」呢？
繆詠華 校長，請你將前兩則留言刪除。僅留最新更新如下：Fontainebleau se nommait au XVIIe siècle Fons Bellaqueus (Fontaine-belle-eau) ; des chartes des XIIe et XIIIe siècles le désignaient aussi sous le nom de Fons Bleaudi, Fons Bliaudi, Fons Blaadii (Fontaine de Bleaud).
Longtemps les étymologistes ont dit que Bleaud était un chien qui avait fait découvrir la fontaine. Des recherches de M. Maurice Lecomte, savant briard, il résulte que Bleaud vient de Bladobald, en latin Bladobaldus ou Bladobaldi, nom d'une famille de guerriers francs, comme Théobald, Clodoald, etc. — (M. Colinet, Indicateur de Fontainebleau : Palais, forêt, environs, 45e édition des guides Denecourt-Colinet, 1921, p.3)
「楓丹白露」十七世紀時稱為Fons Bellaqueus（Fontaine-belle-eau，美麗的泉水）;十二和十三世紀的契據也曾以Fons Bleaudi、Fons Bliaudi、Fons Blaadii（Fontaine de Bleaud）表示之。
長久以來，字源學家均稱Bleaud是一條狗的名字，泉水就是牠發現的。根據布里（巴黎盆地東部一帶）學者M. Maurice Lecomte的研究，Bleaud來自於Bladobald（拉丁文為Bladobaldus或Bladobaldi），法蘭克戰士家族名，諸如Théobald、Clodoald等等。(M. Colinet, Indicateur de Fontainebleau : Palais, forêt, environs, 45e édition des guides Denecourt-Colinet, 1921, p.3)
miao：所以Fontainebleau不是「藍色的泉水」，而是「美麗的泉水」。
Wikipedia article "Fontainebleau".
UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Fontainebleau Castle
The palace of Fontainebleau is unlike other French palaces as it’s made up of a mish-mash of different architectural styles.
Fontainebleau Castle is nestled in the forest of the same name and the site is a quiet haven for visitors. It’s one of France’s lesser-known architectural treasures. Although Fontainebleau is not quite as famous as the Palace of Versailles, Fontainebleau is visited by hundreds of thousands of visitors. And, the palace and garden are number 160 on the UNESCO list of world heritage sites. Report: Genevieve OgerCastle of Fontainebleau (in English)
Sunday in the Forest With Paris at Play
Ed Alcock for The New York Times
The horseshoe staircase at the entrance to the Fontainebleau chateau.
WANDERING off the path and heading up one of the house-sized granite formations that rise up from the pine-needle floor of the Fontainebleau forest, I came face-to-face with two French painters who had made the local scenery internationally famous with their lush canvases, Théodore Rousseau and Jean-François Millet. The two groundbreaking painters, both from the pre-Impressionist artist colony based in the local village of Barbizon, were silhouetted in a sculptured relief imbedded on the side of the Henry Moore-like rock protrusion.
It was yet another historical monument one might bump into in this vast forest.
A few miles south along an isolated intersection, my companions and I had come across a tall stone cross commemorating where, in 1804, Napoleon encountered Pope Pius VII, on his way to Paris to bless Napoleon’s coronation as emperor of France — this, of course, before he had Pius imprisoned in luxurious apartments in the Château de Fontainebleau.
Farther up the lane we had driven around a soaring obelisk on a leafy roundabout, a memorial to Marie Antoinette who, judging from the sumptuous and tasteful rooms she had designed for herself in the chateau, thrived here when the royal court moved in during the autumn hunting season. Along another secluded roundabout near the A6 highway to Paris, we came across a more modern sight: a haggard-looking prostitute standing by her cramped red Fiat, where she patiently waited for clients.
“Fontainebleau is so much a part of the French imagination,” one of my companions, Nathalie Degans, who used to live in the area, commented. “It’s so full of history, legend and weirdness.”
A swath of woodlands three times the size of Manhattan (65 square miles versus 23 square miles) the forest of Fontainebleau, with its mysterious rock formations and gorges, has for at least eight centuries held a special place in French culture and history. Every Sunday hordes of Parisians hop into their cars or take the 40-minute commuter train out here to frolic along the ruler-straight pathways that seem to go forever through the trees.
Here, one seems to sense ghosts amid the woods where generations of French royalty had their favorite hunting grounds and where some of Napoleon’s most intimate dramas were played out. It was also here that the bucolic canvases of the Barbizon School, so vital in shifting French urban artistic sensibilities to a naturalism that found its ultimate flowering in Impressionism — were painted, and where big thinkers like the Eastern mystic G. I. Gurdjieff and the artist Jean Cocteau held court away from the bustle of Paris.
Almost half a century after his death in 1963, Cocteau is still holding court in the tiny 12th-century stone chapel, St. Blaise des Simples, near his former home in the medieval market village of Milly-la-Forêt. During our visit a few months ago, a steady cluster of visitors paused to contemplate Cocteau’s strikingly modern, Picasso-like murals of the crucifixion and resurrection surrounded by local medicinal herbs — according to tradition, St. Blaise was a doctor. Cocteau is buried in the center of the chapel beneath an inscription carved in his distinctive handwriting: “Je reste avec vous” — I remain with you.
A 20-minute drive through the woods brought us to the famous artists’ village of Barbizon. It’s still an outstandingly picturesque spot. The ancient stone houses where Millet, Rousseau and their crowd use to drink, gossip and paint are now art galleries, cafes and inns shaded by giant elms and pines. During the weekends, Barbizon’s narrow country lanes can get pretty crowded with Parisians shopping, taking in the atmosphere, and using the village as a jumping off point for walks in the woods.
All paths and roads seem to point in the direction of the Château de Fontainebleau, at the edge of its namesake town right in the center of the vast forest. The chateau is a 15-minute walk from the train station, where the hourly commuter train comes in from Gare de Lyon in Paris. Strolling along the pleasant Rue Grande, where once swells and armies paraded when the royal court was in residence, we came across families from Paris frolicking in the immaculate lawns and symmetrical gardens surrounding the chateau like gift wrapping.
The chateau itself, with its intimate rooms, eccentric and let’s-build-a bigger-wing-than-the-last-guy’s sprawl, is the antidote to all the straightjacketed pomp and symmetry of Versailles. We could almost sense the ancients royals letting down their wigs in these salons and hallways, richly decorated in hunting motifs and maps of the surrounding forest.
The playfulness continues to this day. Up the Rue Royale the sculptural buildings of Insead, one of Europe’s top business schools, curve into the forest. While wandering the grounds, I randomly caught a Frisbee thrown by someone playing Frisbee football. Soon our group found itself joining an affable gang of international M.B.A. students in a frenzied game amid the trees, another reminder that this last wilderness before Paris is not mired in its rich history, but continues on a pace as vibrant as a weekend picnic.
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
SNCF (www.voyages-sncf.com) runs trains from Gare de Lyon in Paris to Fontainebleau-Avon about once an hour. Fares start at around 7.80 euros each way, or about $11.25 at $1.44 to the euro. By car, take the autoroute A6 and exit at D637 toward Fontainebleau.
WHAT TO SEE
Château de Fontainebleau (33-1-6071-5070; www.musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr). Entry inside the castle starts at 8 euros. Free entry to the French gardens with the impressive pond and canal.
Jean Cocteau’s chapel, La Chapelle St. Blaise des Simples (Rue Jean Moulin, Milly-la-Forêt, 33-1-6498-8494; www.milly-la-foret.fr/La-Chapelle-Saint-Blaise-des). Entry 2 euros.
WHERE TO EAT
Hôtellerie du Bas Breau (22 Grande Rue, Barbizon, 33-1-6066-4005; www.bas-breau.com). The inn’s elegant restaurant is a popular destination for Parisians attracted to its well-prepared local seasonal game including deer, duck and wild boar. It also serves Fontainebleau cheese, a creamy rarity. A three-course meal with wine costs around 100 euros.
Chez Bernard (3 Rue Royale, Fontainebleau, 33-1-6422-2468). Opposite the chateau, this is another great spot for sampling the local produce, like partridge and duck liver. Prix fixe lunches start at 34 euros.
