2014年5月30日 星期五

台北市新生北路高架道路,「堀(ㄎㄨ)川」

1977年,興建中的台北市新生北路高架道路。畫面最右邊的白色建築物位於新生北路與南京東路口,其二樓為金琴西餐廳,在80年代因餐廳秀之盛行而名聞一時。畫面中央正在興建中的高樓為位於長春路65號的金蓬萊大廈(1978年5月完工)。
路中央的大水溝原名「堀川」,又稱「特一號排水溝」,是日治時期所開闢的水渠,兼具防洪和排水的功用,其兩側闢有道路,後經加蓋成為今日的新生南北路,並分段建造高架道路,於1983年全線通車。
這張照片拍攝時,新生北路在南京東路以南的路段尚未建造高架道路,而南京東路以北的新生高架道路則是在1979年通車。新生北路在南京東路以南路段於 1979年開始建造高架道路。1983年,北起中山北路與通河街口、南迄金山南路與濟南路口,全長3.91公里的新生高架道路,正式全線通車。
堀川從台北帝國大學(今台灣大學)北側直到基隆河口的路段興建於昭和8年(1933年),而台北帝國大學西側的路段則是沿用瑠公圳第二幹線加以整治,此亦 造成許多人將新生北路高架橋下的排污水溝「堀川」誤以為是瑠公圳的一部分;事實上,福建漳州人(幼年隨父親移民至台灣彰化)郭錫瑠(後人尊稱他為瑠公)自 1740年起,耗時22年所開鑿興建的灌溉水道「瑠公圳」並不包含堀川。
瑠公圳經過今新店、景美、公館、松山等地,從新店溪青潭源頭將水引至中崙附近的錫口(今松山)興雅庄(今松山區的台鐵臺北機廠、松山菸廠及信義區一帶)。







編按:
連勝文的新生高架單口相聲,是他最新作品,有錢人想的,真的跟你我不一樣。
我的競選團隊對回應此天才想法有兩種想法:
一是,用報報式的諷刺;一是,也很正式地提出不同看法。
於是,這回的聲明稿,跟以前的長得不太一樣。
(報報版)
要參選台北市長的連勝文說,新生高架應該地下化,什麼叫做「新生高架地下化」?
A.其實真正的意思是「新生高價地下化」,就是說,新生高架如果地下化,會貴到嚇死人,所以高價之事,要地下化,不要讓市民知道。
B.新生高架橋橋齡已逾三十年,又老又醜,不如埋入地下眼不見為淨。
C.捷運有時走在空中,有時走在地下,所以為什麼新生高架不行,有些路段走在天空(像現在一樣),有些路段走到地下去(如果天才當選台北市長的話,OMG!)。
D.以上皆是天馬行空的答案(奇的是,天馬就是拒絕走進地下)。

要參選台北市長的連勝文說,新生高架應該地下化,果真如此,那麼原來在新生高架下方的堀(ㄎㄨ 堀,塩漬,初頭)川應該怎麼辦?
A.模仿兩千年前羅馬帝國的光榮傳統,建構宏偉的高架水道系統,車道既然地下化了,水道就搬到原來的新生高上面。
B.可是,可是,羅馬帝國的高架水渠是飲用水,新生高底下的堀川是排水道,兩者好像不太一樣耶,怎麼辦?不過,新生高架地下化絕對是Z > B,今天不做,明天就會後悔的啦,所以不要想太多。
C.堀(ㄎㄨ)川可以發展泛舟系統啊,在地下車道開車開累了,就換乘堀川的遊艇。
D.以上皆是沒有去東京就想到的答案(啊,我們賺到了)!

(正經版)
報載國民黨的台北市長參選人連勝文赴日取經後,提出了將台北市新生高架道路地下化的構想,旋即引發了輿論的質疑。我們認為針對年久失修的新生高架道路未來 應該如何處置,的確需要加以思考,但我們反對以傳統的大建設思維來想像市政,因為這只可能為未來製造出多餘的工程,而不是留下深刻的城市價值。
連勝文提出的新生高架地下化構想,首先是將其下的「堀川」遺忘了,這是個兼具歷史記憶、防洪排水的重要設施。在台北市南北交通有高架快速道路、一般平面道路以及公車捷運等大眾運輸系統的基礎上,我們應從城市歷史、文化與景觀的角度去思考新生高架道路的存在意義。
因此我們更要對連勝文構想中的建設思維提出反對。台北市十多年來主政者以建設為主軸,誇稱可以帶動城市經濟發展,但我們都看到了,這樣的結果帶動的只是財 團的經濟收入跟不肖官員的戶頭收入。如果像連勝文提出的新生高架道路地下化,連他自己也承認「要花很多錢」,那我們不得不思考,花的這許多錢最後會進到誰 的口袋?市民能否享受到花錢的好處,還是只是白花了稅金?
建設必須以市民的福祉為起點,以相關的數據及現實狀況為依據,而不是一個主政者的空泛想像,更不是政治裡金錢遊戲的工具。我們主張新生高架道路的思考應該 以追索城市歷史、營造城市文化與創造市民福祉為起點,在兼顧交通需求與景觀文化塑造的前提下,打造最適宜市民生活的空間。
(圖片來源:http://goo.gl/zQykGx

Tibetans, human rights,sherpa, Mount Everest


According to some estimates Mount Everest is littered with 50 tonnes of garbage and more than 200 corpses. The Economist explains the mess on
Everest and how to clean it up http://econ.st/1ivzaqe


On May 29, 1953, Mount Everest was conquered as Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and sherpa Tenzing Norgay of Nepal became the first climbers to reach the summit.

 

Sherpa[Sher・pa]

  • 発音記号[ʃéərpə | ʃə'ː-]
[名](複 〜s, ((集合的)) 〜)
1 シェルパ族(の一人):Himalaya山地に住むチベット系ネパール人.
2 シェルパ, 山岳ガイド;運搬人, 赤帽.
3 ((s-))(首脳国会議などの)裏方, 予備折衝をする高級官僚や経済人.

 

 

Tibetans Clash With Chinese Police in Second City


Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
The Chinese military tightened security in Lhasa, the Tibetan capital, on Saturday after days of clashes. Tibetans in the suburbs said officers were blocking people from entering the city center. More Photos >


Published: March 16, 2008

BEIJING — Thousands of Buddhist monks and other Tibetans clashed with the riot police in a second Chinese city on Saturday, while the authorities said they had regained control of the Tibetan capital, Lhasa, a day after a rampaging mob ransacked shops and set fire to cars and storefronts in a deadly riot.
 

Related

Times Topics: Tibet


Back Story: Somini Sengupta Discusses Mt. Everest Decision (mp3)

Reuters
Residents in Lhasa, the Tibetan capital, walked through Barkhor, an ancient part of the city where protesters had set fire to a shop and several vehicles on Friday. More Photos »

Associated Press
Protesters threw debris at a police vehicle in Lhasa. Ethnic tensions have run high as more Chinese have moved into Tibet. More Photos >

--> Conflicting reports emerged about the violence in Lhasa on Friday. The Chinese authorities denied that they had fired on protesters there, but Tibetan leaders in India told news agencies on Saturday that they had confirmed that 30 Tibetans had died and that they had unconfirmed reports that put the number at more than 100.
Demonstrations erupted for the second consecutive day in the city of Xiahe in Gansu Province, where an estimated 4,000 Tibetans gathered near the Labrang Monastery. Local monks held a smaller protest on Friday, but the confrontation escalated Saturday afternoon, according to witnesses and Tibetans in India who spoke with protesters by telephone.
Residents in Xiahe, reached by telephone, heard loud noises similar to gunshots or explosions. A waitress described the scene as “chaos” and said many wounded people had been sent to a local hospital. Large numbers of security and military police officers fired tear gas while Tibetans hurled rocks, according to the Tibetans in India.
“Their slogans were, ‘The Dalai Lama must return to Tibet’ and ‘Tibetans need to have human rights in Tibet,’ ” said Jamyang, a Tibetan in Dharamsala, India, the seat of the Tibetan government in exile, who spoke to protesters.
The violence in Lhasa and Xiahe has created a major political and public relations challenge for the ruling Communist Party as Beijing prepares to play host to the Olympic Games in August. The demonstrations are the largest in Tibet since 1989, when Chinese troops used lethal force to crush an uprising by thousands of Tibetan protesters.
The outside world is carefully watching China’s response to the week’s demonstrations. The European Union and the United States have both called on China to act with restraint. The White House called on China to “respect Tibetan culture” and issued a renewed call for dialogue between Beijing and the Dalai Lama, the exiled spiritual leader of Tibetan Buddhism.
The president of the International Olympic Committee, Jacques Rogge, rejected calls for a boycott of the Games to protest the crackdown.
“We believe that the boycott doesn’t solve anything,” he said Saturday on the Caribbean island of St. Kitts, The Associated Press reported. “On the contrary. It is penalizing innocent athletes and it is stopping the organization from something that definitely is worthwhile organizing.”
The tumult also undercuts a theme regularly promoted by China’s propaganda officials, that Tibetans are a happy minority group, smoothly integrated into the country’s broader ethnic fabric.
“What we see right now, what is happening in Tibet, blows the whole propaganda strategy in Tibet wide open,” said Lhadon Tethong, an official with the New York-based advocacy group Students for a Free Tibet.
On Saturday the Chinese authorities defended their response to the violence in Lhasa. “We fired no gunshots,” said Qiangba Puncog, chairman of the Tibet Autonomous Regional Government, according to the state news media.
But Tibetan advocacy groups and witnesses in Lhasa offered accounts contradicting that of the Chinese. The Tibetan government in exile said at least 30 Tibetans died in the protests, according to Agence France-Presse. Witnesses told Radio Free Asia, the nonprofit news agency financed by the United States government, that numerous Tibetans were dead. A 13-year-old Tibetan boy, reached by telephone, said he watched the violence from his apartment and saw four or five Tibetans fall to the ground after military police officers shot at them.
Foreign journalists are being restricted from traveling to Lhasa, and the precise death toll remains unknown. The state news media reported 10 deaths and characterized most of them as shopkeepers. The government’s official news agency, Xinhua, reported that the victims had been “burned to death.”
The demonstrations in Lhasa began Monday and continued through Wednesday as peaceful protests by Buddhist monks from three different monasteries. Some monks protested religious restrictions, while others demanded an end to Chinese rule and even waved the Tibetan flag. The police arrested scores of monks and then reportedly tightened security around the three monasteries so that monks could not leave.
Initially, the protests were largely ignored in the Chinese news media, which were providing blanket coverage of the annual meeting of the National People’s Congress, the Communist Party-controlled national legislature.
But with growing international concern about the protests, and reports that Chinese security forces had attacked monks, the Xinhua news agency issued a short statement blaming rioters for the violence. By Saturday morning, China’s state television network, CCTV, was broadcasting video of Tibetans burning buildings as anchors read directly from a Xinhua report that blamed the Dalai Lama for the violence.
Chinese officials demanded the surrender of the “lawbreakers” in Lhasa and offered leniency to people who turned themselves into the authorities by midnight Monday. Senior officials described the unrest as “sabotage” orchestrated by the Dalai Lama and credited the military police for rescuing 580 people from banks, schools and hospitals that were set afire by rioters.
Gen. Yang Deqing of the Chinese Army said soldiers would not be deployed and the protests were being handled by local police officers and the country’s paramilitary force, the People’s Armed Police.
“We’ll let the police and the military police handle the disturbance,” General Yang said at the National People’s Congress, where he was a delegate. “We won’t be involved.”
Witnesses in Lhasa on Saturday reported seeing large numbers of military police, armored vehicles and, according to a few reports, tanks.
Several residents, reached by telephone, said that an uneasy calm had settled over the city. Tibetans living in the suburbs said officers were blocking people from entering the city center. Local television broadcast instructions. Power and telephone service, suspended in some neighborhoods on Friday, were being restored Saturday. Traffic was light on city streets, while most shops were closed.
“It is all under control now,” said one resident, who identified himself as Mr. Liu and who lives near the old part of the city where the violence started. “We were notified to stay at home last night.”
It is still uncertain what set off Friday’s unrest. Tibetan advocates say ordinary Tibetans began rioting after military police officers attacked monks trying to protest outside a monastery in the center of the city.
The extent of the violence was evident in photographs and video shown on the Internet: fires raging from rooftops and from charred vehicles, shattered storefronts and huge crowds trolling city streets.
News agencies reported Saturday that foreign tourists were being prohibited from entering Tibet. The United States Embassy in Beijing issued a new warning on Saturday advising American citizens about danger in Lhasa and other places.

Huang Yuanxi and Zhang Jing contributed research from Beijing.

Mount Everest, Myths and Mountains in Nepal


According to some estimates Mount Everest is littered with 50 tonnes of garbage and more than 200 corpses. The Economist explains the mess on
Everest and how to clean it up http://econ.st/1ivzaqe

 

在尼泊爾凝視眾神

Gilles Sabrie for The New York Times
木斯唐(Mustang)地區雅拉(Yara)村附近的懸崖上的岩洞。

故事是從一個惡魔開始的。
幾百年前,這個惡魔損毀了藏區中部一座在建寺廟的地基。於是,將佛教帶入藏區的蓮花生大師(Guru Rinpoche)一路向西追擊這個惡魔,一直追到木斯唐(Mustang)的深處。他們在木斯唐的雪山之巔、荒漠峽谷和遼闊草原展開了激烈的搏鬥。最 後,蓮花生大師打敗了惡魔,並將後者身體的各個部分,灑在了木斯唐的各處:惡魔的血液變成了高聳的紅色山崖,惡魔的腸子則滾落到了山崖東側那片被風沙侵蝕 的土地上。後來民眾在“腸子”上建立了尼泊爾境內最長的祈禱牆。
徒步的第五天,我們到達了惡魔的木斯唐人在山腰上建造的羅格卡(Lo Gekar)寺廟,那裡是藏區最古老的寺廟之一。一名喇嘛帶我們參觀寺廟。我沒有見到任何惡魔心臟殘留的痕迹,但在寺廟後方一個陰暗房間的壁畫上可以看到 一種尖牙藍膚的可怕物種。藏人把它們叫做保護神。嚮導卡瑪(Karma)將我拉到旁邊的陰影中,手指指向另一面牆。我定睛望去,看到一尊用岩石雕刻出來的 佛像,至少我覺得它是人工雕刻出來的。
“他們說這個雕像是天生的,剛發現時就是這個樣子。”卡瑪說,“木斯唐人民有許多傳說。他們什麼都信。不管你向哪裡看過去,都有神靈存在。”
今年9月在尼泊爾喜馬拉雅山區16天的徒步旅行中,我發現木斯唐盛產神話故事。雖然現代生活方式已經緩慢入侵,但當地人講述的故事卻與幾百年前沒什 麼區別。我翻山越嶺,走過一個個牆壁刷成白色的小村,這裡谷深風急,散布着遠古山洞穴屋,而正是這些故事為這個荒蠻之地注入了活力。在阿梅帕爾(Ame Pal)於14世紀統一王國之前,就是這樣的,如今這些故事還像從前那樣鮮活。
12年前我在安納普爾納環線(Annapurna Circuit)徒步旅行時,曾稍稍領略了一點木斯唐的風采,從那以後我一直渴望重返此地。環線最北的拱點是一個叫卡貝尼(Kagbeni)的小村,村裡 有許多紅牆環繞的寺廟。村莊的北側是卡利岡達基河(Kali Gandaki River)侵蝕出來的遼闊峽谷。繼續向北就是上木斯唐(Upper Mustang),從前叫做珞王國(Kingdom of Lo)。到上木斯唐旅行,旅行者必須向尼泊爾政府申請一個專門的通行證。
今年秋天似乎是我造訪木斯唐的好時機。童年時我就目睹了母親對佛教信仰的虔誠,後來我開始在喜馬拉雅地區的山路上徒步旅行,在那絕美的風景和信徒們 堅毅的神情中尋找某種超脫的東西。我很快就要40歲了,第一個孩子很快就要誕生。所以是時候到喜馬拉雅做一個朝聖之旅了,並以此紀念我人生一個階段的結束 和另一個階段的開始。
現在造訪木斯唐還有另一個原因。在藏區發生多起自焚事件之後,中國政府去年開始限制赴西藏旅遊的人數——這種限制性舉措其實從2008年就已開始。 所以對旅行者來說,木斯唐是個不錯的替代選擇。木斯唐像西藏一樣處在外喜馬拉雅(Trans-Himalaya),擁有正宗的藏區文化。外喜馬拉雅指的是 喜馬拉雅山脈北側遼闊的高海拔荒漠地帶,喜馬拉雅山脈擋住了大部分的夏天的季風雲團,也將印度和東南亞炎熱多雨的氣候擋在了山脈以南。
根據卡貝尼村的一個政府辦公室的統計數字,去年進入上木斯唐的遊客將近3000人,這個數字比三年前增長了25%以上。但高昂的通行證(10天 500美元,超過10天每天再加10美元)仍讓許多旅行者望而卻步。然而,較低的遊客數量卻深受徒步旅行者歡迎,他們一直試圖躲開繁忙的安納普爾納環線和 珠峰徒步路線。部分木斯唐本地人也喜歡這種遊客稀少的現狀,即使那些主張政府應將大部分通行證收入分給木斯唐居民的人士也不例外。
“這塊土地是世界上最美的地方之一。”木斯唐地區名義上的王子、今年55歲的吉格米·辛基·帕爾巴·比斯塔(Jigme Singi Palbar Bista)說道,“遊客太多的話,這塊土地會無法承受。”
與妻子蒂尼(Tini)在加德滿都谷地(Katmandu Valley)待了一星期後,我和朋友吉勒斯(Gilles)匯合,隨後一起飛往北方,降落在安納普爾納和道拉吉里(Dhaulagiri)群山之間的一 個地方。許多徒步者從卡貝尼村一出發就直奔木斯唐的古都珞馬丹(Lo Manthang),然後在10天內趕回。但我們決定走得慢一些,沿途多探索幾處隱秘的所在。夏季的時候,尼泊爾最後的游牧民族會在珞馬丹以西的高海拔草 原搭帳紮營,暫時定居。那個地區還有不少20000英尺以上的山峰引誘我們去探索。16天的許可證也讓我們有時間造訪珞馬丹以北、靠近西藏的山谷,然後沿 着卡利岡達基河以東的峽谷回到卡貝尼村。木斯唐的東半部雖然位置偏遠,但擁有一些世界上保存得最好的藏傳佛教洞穴。
徒步旅行的每一天,我都因木斯唐景緻竟與之前見到的喜馬拉雅風光如此不同而頻頻驚嘆。木斯唐環繞卡利岡達基河遼闊的河谷,呈現出來的是壯美的峽谷風 光。河流兩岸的徒步路線需要我們在山谷中頻繁地上坡下坡。一年中大多數時候河流水位都很低,但夏季偶爾發生的季風降水意味着我們不得不五六次涉水渡河。
上木斯唐絕大多數地區都很荒涼,居民約5400人,以前只有朝聖藏民和氂牛商隊才會經過這裡。徒步旅行的第二天我們到達了這個地方。眼前是卡利岡達 基河一個寬闊的河段,河水洶湧迅疾。我們所有的裝備都放在三匹馬的背上。除了卡瑪以外,我們的團隊還包括來自珞馬丹的馬夫格姆波(Gombo)和當地的夏 爾巴廚師菲尼約(Fhinju) 。
穿過卡利岡達基河以後,徒步路線開始沿着陡峭的山路通向薩馬(Samar)村。薩馬村是木斯唐地區濕度最高、植被最為豐富的地方。黑夜降臨之前,我 們穿過一個飄滿風馬旗的山口,到達一座木屋客棧。卡瑪是薩馬村的村民,他的哥哥是村子的首領,也是那座木屋客棧的老闆。木斯唐地區較為重要的村子都有至少 一家客棧供徒步者入住。客房裡配有簡易床鋪或鋪着厚實的藏式羊毛毯的長凳。經過一天漫長的步行,我和吉勒斯都已筋疲力盡。我們坐在溫暖的廚房裡用餐,旁邊 是幾個法國旅行者。餐後甜點是加了奶油凍的蘋果派,由卡瑪的嫂子親手烹制。
隔壁傳來擊鼓的聲音。“旅途中的喇嘛。”卡瑪說。
接下來的幾天,我們的徒步旅行形成了固定的模式:早上六七點就起床,吃早餐,然後行走六至八個小時,日落之前到達另一個村莊。我們朝着珞馬丹的方向行進,越往北走越荒涼。群山的顏色每天都在變化,呈現出紅色、棕色和褐色,隨着太陽位置的移動,每一刻都有不同。
在這片崎嶇不平的土地上,當地人建造了很多佛教聖骨冢,也就是小型的舍利塔,通常建在山頂上、通向山村的小路上,甚至山洞裡,部分功能是保佑信眾不受鬼神的傷害。藏傳佛教和神話傳說像兩條繩索一樣交錯糾纏、難分彼此,並與這裡的風景緊密融合。
雨季之後是豐收的季節。村民們走入農田,割下一捆捆金色的大麥。但與豐收相伴的,是許多關於可能降臨在居民身上的詛咒、惡魔和不幸的故事。卡瑪告訴 我們,當地的傳說認為,將木斯唐和西側荒蕪灘地多爾帕(Dolpo)連接起來的那條高山通道,必須在收穫季節結束以後才能通行,不然的話,豐收就會以災難 收場。同理,珞馬丹以西那些20000英尺以上的無名雪山,也必須在收穫季節之後才能攀登。有一天,我冒險登上了一座小山。到達19400英尺以上的雪線 時,忽然下起了冰雹。烏雲迅速聚集,我趕忙撤退下山。
那次冒險攀登之後,我們在游牧家庭附近紮營打尖,過了兩夜;我們坐在他們用氂牛氈做成的黑色帳篷里,喝了幾杯當地的酥油茶。最後我們終於到達了珞馬 丹,我拜見了木斯唐王子(他80歲的父王已經病了好幾周了),並探訪了小鎮中心的三座紅牆喇嘛廟。我們看到數十名當地人在意大利人路易吉·菲耶尼 (Luigi Fieni)的帶領下,正在宏偉的吐欽寺(Thubchen Monastery)里給佛教藝術品重新上漆。許多木頭圓柱撐起寺廟高聳的屋頂,鍍金的巨型雕像令人肅然起敬。
兩天以後我們離開這個小鎮,跟着卡瑪到達一個同樣獨特但藏在腹地里的村莊。從雅拉(Yara)村出發,我們去了卡利岡達基河谷東部一個只有垂直攀爬才能到達的山洞。我們卸下背包,徒手攀登。手一滑,我們就可能墜入幾百英尺之下的谷底。
這個建在石洞里的扎西卡布寺(Tashi Kabum)由當地人在幾年前對外界開放。寺廟裡有個巨大的白色舍利塔,石洞四壁和寺廟屋頂上的壁畫是我見過的保存最好的古代佛教藝術品。在屋頂的壁畫 上,我能看出蓮花瓣的圖案;其中一面牆上有一幅身穿藏紅長袍的喇嘛畫像。更加神秘的是一個面帶微笑、象牙膚色的男性坐像。陽光從岩洞懸崖一側的一個洞口透 進來,令他的面龐熠熠閃光。
我們的夏爾巴朋友菲尼約用手指在畫像上摩挲了幾下。“千瑞吉(Chenrezig)菩薩,”他說,然後低下頭開始祈禱。
在藏傳佛教中,千瑞吉菩薩代表慈悲。藏人相信達賴喇嘛就是千瑞吉菩薩的一個化身。在亞洲的佛教諸神中,千瑞吉菩薩是個非常重要的角色。雖然我在美國郊區出生和成長,但小時候每天晚上我都能看到母親在客廳里對着一尊千瑞吉菩薩的中國化身觀音菩薩虔誠祈禱。
此時此地,童年的家遠在萬里之外,千瑞吉菩薩卻再次凝視着我。人們對他的信仰穿越了國境和時空。同樣的神話傳說對每個人都有不同的含義。我凝望着他的眼睛,知道他的故事會在未來的日子裡延綿不絕。
高地徒步旅行
交通
大多數徒步旅行者都從卡貝尼村進入上木斯唐。最近的機場位於卓姆索姆(Jomsom),從那裡步行至卡貝尼村需三個小時。從度假勝地博卡拉 (Pokhara)坐飛機去卓姆索姆,單程機票在100美元以下。航班的時間和頻次因季節而變化,且常因惡劣天氣而取消。但這條航線途經世界上最高的幾座 山峰,從飛機上向下俯瞰,風光令人驚嘆。還有一種方法,就是乘坐14個小時的公共汽車前往卓姆索姆,但路上常有山體滑坡事故。
嚮導
外國遊客必須通過獨立嚮導或徒步旅行社來申請木斯唐通行證。建議聘請木斯唐當地人做嚮導,儘管這種嚮導比較難找。我的嚮導卡瑪·薩姆德普(Karma Samdup, karmakurt@hotmail.com)來自木斯唐的薩馬村。
如果你想參加西方人運營的旅行社組織的旅行團,可以聯繫“喜馬拉雅項目旅行社”(Project Himalaya; project-himalaya.com)和Kamzang旅行社(kamzang.com)。
住宿 
木斯唐徒步旅行路線中每個較為重要的村子都有客棧或家庭旅館供旅行者入住。經驗豐富的導遊對每個村子的住宿點都很熟悉。
黃安偉是(Edward Wong)是《紐約時報》駐京記者。
本文最初發表於2012年10月28日。
翻譯:毛燕鴻

Explorer

Myths and Mountains in Nepal

THE tale begins with a demon.
Centuries ago, it destroyed the foundations of a Buddhist monastery under construction in central Tibet. Then Guru Rinpoche, who had brought Buddhism to the kingdom, pursued the demon west, deep into Mustang. The two fought among Mustang’s snow peaks, desert canyons and grasslands. Guru Rinpoche prevailed, and he scattered the demon’s body parts across Mustang: its blood formed towering red cliffs, and its intestines tumbled to the wind-scoured earth east of the cliffs. Later, people would build a wall of prayer stones, the longest in Nepal, atop the intestines.
On the fifth day of our trek, we stood above the demon’s heart. Here, on a hillside, the people of Mustang had built the monastery of Lo Gekar, one of the oldest in the Tibetan world. A lama showed us around. I found no remnants of a demonic heart, but the walls in a dark room at the rear were covered with paintings of fearsome creatures with fangs and blue skin. Tibetans called them protector deities. Our guide, Karma, pulled me over into the shadows and pointed to another wall. I squinted, and saw a statue of Buddha that had been carved from the rock. Or so I thought.
“They say the statue is natural and was discovered this way,” Karma said. “People in Mustang have many stories. They believe everything. There are spirits everywhere you look.”
Mustang was a caldron of myth, as I discovered on a 16-day trek through the Himalayan region of Nepal in September. Modernity was creeping in to the area, but the stories that people told had evolved little over centuries. As I walked through the valleys and white-walled villages, I heard tales that brought alive the harsh land, a place of deep ravines and stinging wind and ancient cave homes. It had been this way before the kingdom was united under Ame Pal in the 14th century, and the narratives seem as alive today as ever.
I had longed to visit Mustang ever since I got a glimpse of it while trekking the nearby Annapurna Circuit 12 years ago. On the northern arc of the circuit was the village of Kagbeni, with its red-walled monastery. To the north was an expansive gorge carved by the Kali Gandaki River. Beyond lay Upper Mustang, or the Kingdom of Lo, forbidden to those who did not have a permit from the Nepalese government.
This fall seemed like the right time for me to go. As a boy, I had seen my mother embrace certain Buddhist beliefs, and later I began walking paths in the Himalayas in search of something transcendent in the landscape and the abiding expressions of faith. I would soon turn 40, and my first child was on the way. It was time to make a Himalayan pilgrimage at the close of a chapter of my life and the beginning of another.
There was another reason to visit now. Last year, as a wave of self-immolations swept across the Tibetan plateau, China restricted access to the region — which had already been limited since 2008. For tourists, Mustang is a good alternative. It provides a taste of authentic Tibetan culture, and, like much of Tibet, it lies in the Trans-Himalaya, a vast high-altitude desert to the north of the main Himalayan range, which blocks most of the monsoon clouds that dump rain on India and Southeast Asia in the summer.
Last year, nearly 3,000 tourists entered Upper Mustang, according to statistics in a government office in Kagbeni, an increase of more than 25 percent from about three years earlier. But the permit fee — $500 for 10 days, and $10 for each additional day — still deters many travelers. The low numbers, though, are welcomed by those trekkers looking to avoid the busy Annapurna and Everest trails, as well as by some Mustangis, even ones who say the government needs to give Mustang a greater portion of permit revenue.
“Our land is in one of the most beautiful corners of the world,” said Jigme Singi Palbar Bista, 55, the ceremonial prince of Mustang. “But if a lot of tourists come, we wouldn’t be able to support them all.”
After a week in the Katmandu Valley with my wife, Tini, I met up with my friend Gilles and flew north, between the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs. Many trekkers rush from Kagbeni to Lo Manthang, the walled capital of Mustang, and back in 10 days. We decided to go more slowly and explore some of the hidden corners along the way. Summertime in Nepal is when some of its last remaining nomads set up camp in the high grasslands west of Lo Manthang. In that area, too, are peaks of more than 20,000 feet beckoning to be explored. A 16-day permit would also allow us time to travel up the valleys running north of Lo Manthang, toward Tibet, and then return to Kagbeni along the canyons east of the Kali Gandaki. The eastern half of Mustang was more remote, and it had some of the best-preserved Tibetan Buddhist cave art in the world.
Each day of the trek, I marveled at how the landscape of Mustang was unlike anything I had seen in the Himalayas. It was a place of canyon vistas revolving around the enormous valley of the Kali Gandaki. The trekking routes on both sides of the river ran up and down side valleys. The rivers were low most of the year, but some summer monsoon rains meant we had to ford rivers a half-dozen times.
Much of Upper Mustang is a desolate place, inhabited by about 5,400 people and once crossed only by Tibetan pilgrims and yak caravans. We entered the area on the second day of the trek. There, at a wide stretch of the Kali Gandaki, the waters were flowing high and fast. All our gear was lashed to three horses. Besides Karma, our team consisted of Gombo, a horseman from Lo Manthang, and Fhinju, an ethnic Sherpa cook.
After the trail crossed the Kali Gandaki, it climbed steeply up to the village of Samar, considered the wettest and greenest place in Mustang. Right before dusk, we crossed a pass draped with Tibetan prayer flags and walked down to a lodge. Karma came from Samar, and his brother, the village head, owned the lodge. The main villages in Mustang all had at least one home where trekkers could stay. The rooms had simple beds or a bench with a thick Tibetan wool rug. Exhausted from a long day of trekking, Gilles and I sat down in the warm kitchen for dinner, next to French travelers. For dessert, the brother’s wife prepared apple pie with custard.
From next door came the sound of a pounding drum. “Traveling lamas,” Karma said.
Over the next days, we settled into our trekking routine: get up at 6 or 7, eat breakfast, walk for six to eight hours, reach a village before nightfall. The countryside became more barren the farther north we went, as we approached Lo Manthang. The hues of the mountains — shades of red and brown and ocher — changed each day, and varied with the movement of the sun.
All across the rugged land, people had built Buddhist chortens, or small stupas, atop hills, on pathways leading into villages and even inside caves, in part to ward off spirits that would do them harm. Tibetan Buddhism and the myths were intertwined threads that were in turn woven into the landscape.
With the tail end of the monsoon came the harvest. Villagers were out in the fields cutting down golden stalks of barley. But the harvest also brought out more stories of curses, bad spirits and misfortunes that could befall people. Karma said the high passes that linked Mustang with the arid land of Dolpo to the west could not be crossed until after the harvest, legend had it, lest the harvest end in disaster. The same held for climbing the unnamed peaks that rose to over 20,000 feet west of Lo Manthang. One day, tempting fate, I walked up one. When I reached the snowline, above 19,400 feet, it began hailing. Dark clouds loomed. I went down.
We reached Lo Manthang after that climb and a couple of nights camping near nomad families. We had sat in their black yak-wool tents and sipped cups of buttermilk tea. In Lo Manthang, I spoke to the prince of Mustang (his father, the 80-year-old king, had been ill for weeks) and visited the three red-walled monasteries at the heart of the town. We met a team of dozens of locals being led by an Italian, Luigi Fieni, who was repainting Buddhist artwork in the gargantuan Thubchen Monastery. Its towering roof was held up by a forest of wood pillars and its enormous gilded statues inspired awe.
After two days, we left, following Karma to a place just as singular but hidden by the land. From the village of Yara, we approached a cave east of the Kali Gandaki gorge that was reachable only by a vertical climb. We took off our packs and scrambled up using our hands. One slip and we would have plummeted hundreds of feet to the valley floor.
This was Tashi Kabum, a cave temple that local villagers had opened to the public only a few years ago. Inside was a large white chorten, and painted on the cave walls and roof were some of the best preserved ancient Buddhist art I had ever seen. I could make out lotus petals on the roof. On one wall was a portrait of a lama in red robes. More enigmatic was a painting of a smiling, ivory-skinned man in a seated position. His face was illuminated by sunlight streaming through an opening in the cliffside.
Fhinju, our Sherpa companion, brushed his fingers over the painting. “Chenrezig,” he said, and bowed his head in prayer.
For Tibetan Buddhists, Chenrezig was a bodhisattva embodying compassion. Tibetans believed the Dalai Lama was a reincarnation of him. He was a central figure in Buddhist pantheons across Asia. Growing up in an American suburb, I had watched my mother pray nightly in our living room to a statue of the Chinese incarnation, Guanyin.
Here, as far from my childhood home as it was possible to be, he gazed out at me again. Faith in him had crossed borders and transcended time. The tale took on a different meaning with each person. I stared into his eyes and saw his story unfolding in days to come.
TAKING THE HIGH ROAD
GETTING THERE
Most trekkers enter Upper Mustang at the village of Kagbeni. The nearest airport is at Jomsom, a three-hour walk away. Flights to Jomsom from the resort town of Pokhara cost less than $100 each way. The airlines and frequency vary with the season, and there are often cancellations due to bad weather. But the view from the plane, which passes between some of the world’s highest mountains, is jaw-dropping. One alternative is to take a 14-hour bus ride to Jomsom along a route that has frequent landslides.
GUIDES
Foreigners must arrange their Mustang permits through an individual guide or trekking agency. I recommend hiring a native Mustangi as a guide, though they are hard to find. I used Karma Samdup (karmakurt@hotmail.com), who comes from the village of Samar in Mustang.
If you want to go with a Western-led travel agency, Project Himalaya (project-himalaya.com) and Kamzang (kamzang.com) run treks in Mustang.
LODGING
Every major village on the trekking trails in Mustang has a guesthouse or home where trekkers can stay. An experienced guide knows them all.

2014年5月29日 星期四

台灣海岸土地鹽化而失地的問題也很嚴重

台灣海岸土地鹽化而失地的問題也很嚴重。


"We are losing our lands to the sea as a result of soil erosion, and land defines who we are. Our culture, our life, our heritage, and our language are all rooted in the land. However, I am afraid that Tuvaluans will likely lose our lands to the sea in the future if nothing is done."
Maina Talia: Traditional ways of life on Tuvalu and Kiribati, the most...
The Guardian|由 Maina Talia 上傳

鹿窟村 (汐止、石碇交界)


南蠻.記憶歷史近況更新



南蠻.記憶歷史新增了 2 張相片。


【從地圖上消失的村落】

「提起陳啟旺,兩眼淚汪汪,好好村長你不當,偏要村民當共黨,人民不了解,全部上了當!」── 保密局反共政治歌曲

鹿窟事件,台灣戒嚴時期,最大的一宗政治案件。


二二八大屠殺後,對於國民黨政府的反抗多轉入地下,部分抗議人士無力再組織反抗行動,因而流亡山區。而接近台北的鹿窟,也因此被當局視為肅清目標。

1952年12月28日深夜,近萬名軍警攻上了位於台北縣汐止、石碇交界的鹿窟村,以鹿窟村為「武裝基地」之名義,大肆清鄉。

從那之後,鹿窟村如同消失於地圖之上。

根據資料,當局不分青紅皂白,拘捕無數左翼知識份子、公會領導者,甚至於無辜的農民礦工、老幼婦孺,全面進行酷刑逼供。儘管搜查後顯示鹿窟的武裝勢力薄弱,根本稱不上「武裝基地」,然而蔣介石下達了「肅清武裝基地」的指示,導致株連無數,死傷慘重。

「像抓粽子一樣,牽出一案又一案。」

學者張炎憲表示,當時有35人被判死刑槍決,98人被判有期徒刑(含未成年的兒童),刑期合計865年,受牽連的村民達200多人。諷刺的是,原本身為當局主要拘捕目標的異議份子,卻有幾位核心幹部向當局自首並協助破案,得以免除罪刑。

鹿窟事件過後,當局甚至留下未成年的孩子,將他們做為幫傭或間諜,命令他們監視村人。

而許多未經審判即被拘留的村民,由於提不出官方證據,以致到了晚年,仍無法獲得受難補償。他們在獄中努力識字讀書,將自己受難的經歷公諸於世。

「 .......在鹿窟山上被迫自首的人,包括不到10歲的小孩,也有不識字的大人,他們晚上都要到鹿窟禪寺上政治思想課。有個十歲小孩被罰唱國歌,開口唱的竟是中共國歌和國際歌,當場慘遭修理...... 」
(節自陳銘城《哭泣的鹿窟——要命的基地與矽肺病》)

*文中開頭的陳啟旺為鹿窟村村長,與長子陳田其同被槍決。
*下圖男子為當時被稱為「台灣第一才子」的呂赫若,死於鹿窟事件。

鹿窟基地案(wiki)
http://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E9%B9%BF%E7%AA%9F%E5%9F%BA%E5%9C%B0%E6%A1%88

【受難故事39】株連無辜 消失寒村——1952年台北 鹿窟事件
http://2009story.blogspot.tw/2009/03/39.html

1952年:鹿窟事件
http://big5.huaxia.com/lasd/twzlk/zzsj/2012/07/2910887.html

鹿窟事件五十週年《這樣的人,那樣的年代!》系列
http://www.ltn.com.tw/2002/new/sep/2/r-deerhole1.htm

寒村的哭泣 鹿窟事件(博客來)
http://www.books.com.tw/products/0010363356

木柵老泉山

Arthur Yo 優人神鼓的發源地(木柵老泉山上)為劉若瑀老師家傳的私有地,因緣際會在那塊地上創立了優人神鼓,引領台灣文化藝術走向國際。創設初期為必免對環境造成衝 擊,僅配合地形搭建簡易木造屋舍,做為團員修行練鼓之場所,後因簡易屋舍年久失修無法使用,原欲稍家整建維持原有樣貌,但涉及保護區相關法令之限制,向文 化局申請協助,文化局便委託顧問公司針對該處研提都市計畫變更案,要將土地地目由保護區變更為文化景觀保存區,提高容積率供優人擴建所需,但昨日民間團體 代表與優人的座談會中,劉若瑀老師始瞭解此變更案將對保護區開發產生破窗效應,且為符合建築法令必需挖山開路,將嚴重破壞土地原有樣貌造成環境衝擊,與優 人創立的初衷相違背,因此劉若瑀老師於座談會中主動表示:這不是優人神鼓要的!並立即決定向北市府申請撤案。今天早上劉若瑀老師親自出席都委會宣讀優人神 鼓撤案聲明書,創下為守護保護區完整性放棄變更案的最佳典範!優人不僅用藝術展演為這個社會帶來正向力量,更以具體行動守護山林,請大家一同給予支持與鼓 勵!
32分鐘 · 收回讚 · 7
【土地的修行者】台灣社會極正面的事,能否請大家轉貼,拜託,謝謝。
今天上午9點,台北市都委會審議優人神鼓保護區變更為文化景觀區乙案,優人神鼓創辦人暨藝術總監劉若瑀老師在會中發表撤銷變更申請。
1.這件事,令我非常、非常的感動。⋯⋯
更多

2014年5月28日 星期三

Edinburgh


The city centre from the top of the Nelson Monument. It's worth the shoogly legs for the views up here. I'd even go as far as to say it's well worth the £4 it costs to get shoogly legs. I mean, what does £4 get you these days? Not even a pint in a lot of city centre posers palaces? Just over half a fish supper maybe? You see the point, not a lot so in that context it's a bargain to see this!

2014年5月27日 星期二

an-outsiders-guide-to-the-city-of-london

Special report: an outsider’s guide to the City of London

Has the UK’s financial HQ done anything meaningful to protect itself from future economic shocks? Stephen Moss goes deep into ‘enemy territory’ to find out
Clouds gather over high-rise buildings in the financial district of Canary Wharf in east London.
Clouds gather over the financial district of Canary Wharf in east London. Photograph: Matt Cardy/Getty

2014年5月26日 星期一

2015 年世界博覽會的意大利館是懂得潔淨空氣的!



2015 年世界博覽會的意大利館是懂得潔淨空氣的!


2015 年世界博覽會將會在意大利的米蘭舉行,作為主辦國的意大利當然要在場館設計上花多點心思,不能失禮於人啦,所以就得出了上面這個懂得潔淨空氣的場館設計 嚕。它名為 Palazzo Italia,是由 Nemesi & Partners 設計事務所設計出來的,理念就是城市中的森林。

所以,為什麼它會懂得潔淨空氣呢?答案就是因為它的整個表面和部份室內位置,都會鋪上一種名為 i.active BIODYNAMIC 的水泥板,當這種水泥板的物料接觸紫外光的話,裡面的二氧化鈦就會跟空氣裡的二氧化氮(大氣污染物的一種)產生反應,並將其轉化成易於沖走的鹽。很想看看 效果如何?最實際的方法當然就是訂機票去米蘭和搶購世博的入場劵啦~

草山蔣緯國紀念館?


今晚的「54新觀點」談此議題,一瞬間已過18載矣!
1996年拆屋時,便曾去該處實地採訪過 ! 期間,也多次訪問蔣緯國將軍(英文名為: WE GO~ 翻譯成現在用詞...即"薇閣" )~所以當葉海瑞以三億元天價買該廢墟,宣稱要做蔣緯國紀念館,陳列蔣的骨董、珍品後,便格外注意動向。特別是該地面積達四千七百平方公尺,位於山坡、視 野極佳!


〈台北都會〉陽明山蔣緯國廢墟開發茶廠 被疑蓋招待所

2014-05-26

海天保全葉海瑞 提開發案

〔記者郭安家/台北報導〕繼劉政池七七行館被拆後,陽明山又有開發案惹議。故總統蔣經國弟弟蔣緯國生前 位於保護區的豪宅,十八年前遭前台北市長陳水扁拆除,荒廢至今,海天保全董事長葉海瑞買下後,提出製茶廠開發計畫;但台北市都市設計審議委員會委員不滿, 指規劃「太扯了!」住宿空間是茶廠的三倍,質疑未來要蓋招待所。
  • 蔣緯國生前的陽明山至善路別墅,遭陳水扁拆除後,荒廢至今,目前土地已轉手海天保全董事長葉海瑞,擬重新開發。(記者郭安家攝) 蔣緯國生前的陽明山至善路別墅,遭陳水扁拆除後,荒廢至今,目前土地已轉手海天保全董事長葉海瑞,擬重新開發。(記者郭安家攝)
  • 陽明山保護區製茶廠開發案基地示意圖,圖中白色區塊即為蔣緯國豪宅廢墟(記者郭安家繪圖) 陽明山保護區製茶廠開發案基地示意圖,圖中白色區塊即為蔣緯國豪宅廢墟(記者郭安家繪圖)
  • 蔣緯國生前的陽明山至善路別墅,遭陳水扁拆除後,荒廢至今,其最高處群山圍繞,空氣新鮮,可眺望市區。(記者郭安家攝) 蔣緯國生前的陽明山至善路別墅,遭陳水扁拆除後,荒廢至今,其最高處群山圍繞,空氣新鮮,可眺望市區。(記者郭安家攝)

住宿空間 竟是製茶廠三倍

有媒體三年前曾報導,葉海瑞以三億元天價買該廢墟,宣稱要做中國觀光客民宿、蔣緯國紀念館,陳列蔣的骨董、珍品。
該 基地面積四千七百平方公尺,分布山坡,記者實地走訪,在基地高處,空氣舒爽,可遠眺市區。一位房仲業者說,這類保護區土地多長期持有,沒預售屋交易頻繁, 但有view更稀有,耳聞華人富豪對台北一○一大樓、陽明山周邊的產品較有興趣,多透過「有實力朋友交換」,或英屬維京群島公司購買,帳面交易量少。
建 管處副總工程司邱英哲說,保護區內可附條件允許闢農舍或製茶廠等,葉海瑞委託尤瑋明建築事務所雖規劃製茶廠,申請保護區開發組別為公害最輕微之業的製茶 業;但製茶廠僅九十九平方公尺,附屬設施的員工宿舍及儲藏室分別為二百八十、二百七十三平方公尺,接待大廳二百五十六平方公尺,都比茶廠大。

都發局退回 要求重新設計

都審委員王俊雄說:「這樣規劃方式太扯了,較像招待所,有好大的大廳,兩翼還有住宿空間,你們(開發商)當然會說以後不會怎樣;但我無法接受。」都發局副局長王榮進說,製茶廠面積那麼小,旁邊雜七雜八設施一堆,不成比例,保護區開發要合理規劃!
尤瑋明建築事務所解釋,員工需十三個床位,部分宿舍偏遠,另需小小的餐廳、廚房;由於未來要製茶,所以接待大廳採圓弧形一、二樓挑高設計,可做生態導覽,盼都審委員考量其特殊性。但都發局要求重新設計,擇日再到都審會報告。

太平島:台湾が南シナ海の戦略拠点を増強、静観する中国の思惑


台在太平島建碼頭 可泊巡防艦

時間:2014-05-26 15:12 新聞引據:中央社





台在太平島建碼頭 可泊巡防艦
太平島是南沙群島最大的島嶼,自1945年起就被中華民國控制,全島面積0.49平方公里,被稱為中華民國的「南疆鎖鑰」。(資料照片/CNA)



中華民國政府正斥資1億美元,在南海太平島小型機場旁打造碼頭,有朝一日將能容納排水量達3千噸的海軍巡防艦和海岸巡防署多艘巡邏艇。

Sydney's the 2014 Vivid festival

Sydney's landmarks become canvases for giant laser projections in aid of the 2014 Vivid festival
Watch a timelapse video of Sydney's famous landmarks as they transform into a giant canvas for the opening of Vivid festival 2014
The Guardian

2014年5月25日 星期日

36 Hours in Kyoto, Japan

36 Hours in Kyoto, Japan

May 09, 2014

36小時玩轉日本京都

36小時玩轉2014年05月09日
伏見稻荷大社。一座神廟。
伏見稻荷大社。一座神廟。
Ko Sasaki for The New York Times
A full 36 hours, 36 days, or even 36 weeks could be spent exploring the thousands of Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, Zen gardens, palaces, pagodas, parks and walking paths in Kyoto, the former imperial capital of Japan. So it’s little surprise that the most common complaint about the enchanting city is that there are too many tourists, especially during the spring cherry-blossom season. To avoid crowds, consider seeking out local haunts in far-flung neighborhoods, all within reach thanks to an extensive public transport system. You’ll quickly discover that many of Kyoto’s most rewarding attractions can’t be found in any guidebook. At least not yet.
遊覽日本昔日的首都——京都,走遍數千座 寺院、神社、禪意花園、宮殿、寶塔、公園與步道,36小時怎麼夠?你需要36天甚至36個星期。人們對這座美妙城市最大的不滿就是遊客太多,尤其是春天櫻 花盛開的時節,這一點不出所料。為了避開人潮,你不妨在本地較為偏遠的街區尋個住處。京都的公交四通八達,無論從哪個社區出遊都很便利。你會很快發現許多 頗值一游的風景名勝,而它們並未收錄在任何一本旅遊指南中,至少目前還沒有。
FRIDAY
星期五
1. Golden Oldies | 2 p.m.
1. 黃金懷舊經典 | 下午2點
It’s easy to bounce from temple to temple until they all blur into a muddled mass. To prevent this overdose, be selective and focus on a single memorable spot, like Rengeo-in temple, commonly known as Sanjusangen-do (admission, 600 Japanese yen, about $6 at 100 yen to the dollar). The temple’s main hall, nearly 400 feet long, houses an unforgettable sight: a gigantic statue of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, flanked by 1,000 human-size statues. The golden statues, each with 42 arms, carved from Japanese cypress in the 12th and 13th centuries, still look immaculate.
在不同的寺院進進出出,它們在你腦中的印 象很快會模糊難辨。為了防止過量旅遊引發的副作用,你需要精心篩選目的地,專註於某個值得一游的最佳景點,比如蓮華王院,俗稱三十三間堂(門票600日 元,約合6美元。1美元約合100日元)。該寺院的大殿將近400英尺長,風景令人難忘:一尊巨大的觀音(佛教中的慈悲女神)雕像,兩側是1000座真人 大小的雕像。每一尊金燦燦的雕像都有42支手臂,是12至13世紀用日本柏木雕刻而成,至今看上去仍完美無瑕。
2. Kyoto via Copenhagen | 4 p.m.
2. 哥本哈根與京都的融合 | 下午4點
Adapting ancient crafts to contemporary tastes is a skill some local artisans have perfected through a venture called Japan Handmade. The project is a collaboration between the Danish design studio OeO and six small Kyoto-area companies, each rooted in a traditional craft, from woodworking to metal-knitting. One of the participants, Hosoo, founded in 1688, produces luxurious fabrics traditionally used to make kimonos. Today the patterned silks also adorn upholstered armchairs and high-top sneakers (a collaboration with the fashion designer Mihara Yasuhiro). Find these modern creations and Japan Handmade’s range of covetable items — glazed porcelain trays, cypress-wood Champagne buckets — at the new House of Hosoo showroom in Nishijin, the city’s historic textile district. Because visits are by appointment only, exploring the tatami mat rooms feels like touring a private museum.
讓古代工藝適應當代品味,一些本地工匠通 過日本手作(Japan Handmade)項目,將這項絕技磨練得越發純熟了。日本手作是丹麥OeO設計工作室和京都六家株式會社的合作項目,它們各自專註於一項傳統工藝,比如 木工或金屬編織。其中,細尾株式會社(Hosoo)始建於1688年,專註於製造精美的和服專用織物。而今這些花紋細密的絲綢也可用於家居裝飾和高端運動 鞋(與時尚品牌三原康裕合作)。到京都歷史悠久的傳統紡織基地西陣織,走進新近開張的「細尾家」陳列館,你會發現無數現代創意與日本工藝完美融合的藝術品 ——釉面瓷碟、柏木香檳桶……必須預約才能入內,當你穿行於一個個鋪有榻榻米的房間,感覺彷彿在遊覽私家博物館。
細尾家。
細尾家。
Ko Sasaki for The New York Times
3. Chicken Dinner | 6:30 p.m.
3. 雞肉美餐 | 傍晚6:30
Most locals don’t blow their yen on outrageously priced kaiseki dinners, and neither should you. Instead, secure a seat at Hitomi, a casual yakitori restaurant that is beloved for its warm service and delicious grilled things-on-sticks. Bar seats afford front-row views of the smoking grill, where every part of the chicken, beak to tail, is cooked with care. Don’t miss the tsukune (ground chicken “meatball”), crisp kawa (skin) and succulent momo (chicken thigh) seasoned with nothing but a pinch of salt. Dinner for two, about 5,000 yen.
大部分本地人不會把錢揮霍在奢侈的懷石料 理上,你也不必。你可以到輕鬆休閑的日式雞肉燒烤店「瞳」找個座位,它貼心的服務與美味的烤肉深受歡迎。店內前排的座位佔盡優勢,可清清楚楚地看到煙氣瀰 漫的烤肉架,雞身上從喙到尾巴的每一個部位小心翼翼地在火上炙烤。不要錯過雞肉丸、酥脆的雞皮和豐美多汁的雞腿,除了鹽什麼調料都沒加哦。雙人餐大約 5000日元。
4. Rebirth of the Cool | 9 p.m.
4. 酷炫重生 | 晚上9點
After dinner, soak up the smooth sounds and surroundings at Yamatoya, a longstanding jazz bar that reopened in 2013 after a yearlong renovation. No detail here is overlooked, from the classy décor — antique tables, glossy red bar — to the hand-cut ice. Then there’s the music. Hearing a Django Reinhardt record played on the superb audio system — Garrard 401 turntable, vintage Vitavox Klipschorn speakers — is like seeing new colors for the first time. And if the rich, room-filling sound doesn’t bowl you over, the owner’s collection of over 5,000 records surely will.
晚餐之後,在「大和屋」酒吧柔和的音樂與 景物中沉醉吧。這家經營多年的爵士酒吧在長達一年的翻修之後,2013年重新開業。從高雅的裝飾(古典的餐桌、閃亮的紅色吧台)到手工切割的冰塊,這裡的 每一處細節都不容忽視。還有音樂。頂級音響系統(加拉德401唱片轉盤、經典Vitavox Klipschorn喇叭)播放着三指琴魔姜戈·萊因哈特(Django Reinhardt)的吉他曲,讓初次造訪的顧客眼前一亮。如果這回味無窮的美妙音樂都沒能鎮住你,那麼當你聽到店主收藏了5000多張唱片,一定會驚 訝。
蓋亞咖啡館。
蓋亞咖啡館。
Ko Sasaki for The New York Times
5. Discreet Drinks | 11 p.m.
5. 小心斟酌 | 晚上11點
Spend the rest of the night hopping to increasingly discreet bars. Start at Cafe Gaea, a laid-back neighborhood hangout where you can while away an hour chatting with the affable manager, Rei. Then slip down the narrow path leading to the sliding door of Bar Bunkyu. The smiling bartender Nao befriends all who enter the austere space, where a few stools surround a large slab of textured wood that doubles as both bar and communal table. Close out the night at the nameless bar usually referred to as Kazu’s, after its owner. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you open an unmarked door on the third floor of a dingy back-alley building and step into darkness — only a few flickering candles illuminate the bottle-lined bar. A hypnotic soundtrack, underground atmosphere and 5 a.m. closing time make this an ideal last stop for those who can find it.
剩下的夜晚,不斷地從一個私密酒吧轉到另 一個更為私密的酒吧。從蓋亞咖啡館開始吧,你可以在這個慵懶的地方消磨一個小時與溫和的經理凌(音譯)聊天。然後溜出門,沿着一條狹窄的小巷走到文久吧的 推拉門前。踏進這家樸素酒吧的任何顧客都會受到笑容滿面的侍應生奈央(音譯)友善的優待。室內的幾張凳子圍着一張有天然花紋的巨大木板桌,它扮演着吧台與 公用餐桌的雙重角色。夜晚的最後一個去處?不妨選擇無名的和家酒吧(因為店主名叫「和」)。走進陋巷,來到一座昏暗小樓的三層,推開一道沒有特殊標記的房 門,就走進了這間酒吧。擺滿酒瓶的吧台上只有幾支微光搖曳的蠟燭。催人入夢的音樂,幽暗的空氣,加上凌晨五點才關門,所以只要找到它,你就會發現作為夜晚 的最後一站,此處非常理想。
SATURDAY
星期六
6. Cafe Culture | 10 a.m.
6. 咖啡文化 | 上午10點
Temporarily transport yourself to an earlier era with a morning coffee at Rokuyousha, an old-school cafe with wood-paneled walls, vinyl seats, olive-hued tile and ceramic ashtrays atop every table. It’s easy to walk right past this relaxed bi-level coffee shop, but the many residents who stop in to read the newspaper, have a smoke and snack on homemade cake doughnuts know you shouldn’t.
在六曜社珈琲店喝杯咖啡,你可暫時回到過去的時光。木板牆壁、塑料座椅、橄欖色的瓦片,每張桌上都擺着陶瓷煙灰缸。雖然這家氣氛慵懶的兩層咖啡館並不起眼,但許多本地人都會踱進來讀報紙、抽煙、吃幾塊家常烘焙的蛋糕式甜甜圈,因為他們深知,這個地方不容錯過。
7. Funny Faces | 11:30 a.m.
7. 滑稽的臉龐 | 上午11:30
Though many tour the temples that dot the Arashiyama district on the western edge of the city, few find their way to a fascinating site in the nearby foothills. At Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, a humble Buddhist temple with roots dating back to the eighth century, the hillsides are lined with over 1,000 moss-covered rakan statues (representing disciples of Buddha) whose origins are considerably more modern. In the 1980s and ‘90s, hundreds of people learned to stone-carve and donated the figures to support the temple’s reconstruction. The result was this wide-ranging collection of statues bearing entertaining expressions, from a tennis-racquet-wielding figure to a pair of jolly drinking buddies. Find and imitate your favorites. Admission, 300 yen.
儘管很多人曾經去京都城市西部邊緣嵐山地 帶星羅棋布的寺院內遊覽,但附近山麓有個迷人的地方卻很少被人發現。簡陋的愛宕念仏寺歷史可追溯至公元8世紀,而山坡上1000多尊長滿青苔的羅漢(佛教 門徒)像,年代卻毫不久遠。在20世紀八九十年代,為了支援寺院的重建,數百個初學石雕的愛好者將自己的人像作品捐了出來。結果這組雕像形態各異,妙趣橫 生,有揮舞網球拍的運動健兒,也有歡笑對飲的好兄弟。去找找自己最愛的雕像並模仿他們的動作吧。門票300日元。
松籟庵的佳肴。
松籟庵的佳肴。
Ko Sasaki for The New York Times
8. Tofu and Bamboo | 1:30 p.m.
8. 豆腐與竹林 | 下午1:30
Meditate on the subtlety of flavors during a meal at Syouraian, a restaurant in Arashiyama that showcases tofu, a Kyoto specialty, in various forms. Deep in the woods with views over the Oi River, the tranquil tatami mat dining room is a harmonious backdrop for the beautifully presented dishes, from a silken tofu appetizer adorned with a single dot of bean paste to fried agedashi tofu in broth topped with quivering shavings of dried bonito (4,600 yen for eight courses). After lunch, stroll through the nearby bamboo forest, where a path courses beneath the swaying stalks.
去松籟庵餐廳,在豐富微妙的美味中沉醉 吧。它位於嵐山,特色菜是京都特產的各式豆腐。餐廳位於密林深處,俯瞰大堰川的風景。寧靜的室內鋪着榻榻米,與品相優美的菜肴相得益彰,柔滑的豆腐開胃菜 上配一點豆醬,肉湯中的炸豆腐頂上鋪着一層顫巍巍的干鰹魚末(八道菜,共4600日元)。午餐之後,走進左近的竹林,沿着曲折的小徑在搖曳的竹影中漫步。
9. Design Shops | 4:30 p.m.
9. 工藝品店 | 下午4:30
At Kyoto Design House, a refined shop occupying the ground floor of a spacious Tadao Ando-designed building, browse antique hair combs perhaps worn by long-gone geisha, black lacquered iPhone cases adorned with gold foil, and business-card holders made from Nishijin fabrics. More contemporary artisan crafts are for sale at Kohchosai Kosuga, a nearby shop filled with bamboo designs that will ignite a desire to outfit your entire kitchen with everything from elegantly simple serving plates and rice scoops to beautiful woven baskets and trays.
精美的京都設計館位於建築大師安藤忠雄設 計的一座大樓的一層,在這裡,你可以見到早已過世的藝妓用過的古董梳、金箔裝飾的黑漆iPhone殼及用西陣織布料精製的名片夾。鐘意當代工藝品的,可去 附近的公長齋小菅,店內的竹藝品會讓你恨不得將整個廚房裝飾一新。從優雅簡潔的上菜盤、飯勺到漂亮的竹籃與竹編托盤,應有盡有。
京都設計館。
京都設計館。
Ko Sasaki for The New York Times
10. Deep-Fried Dinner | 8 p.m.
10. 油炸美食 | 晚上8點
Kushiage, the cooking style of deep-frying food on skewers, is an art form at Kushi Tanaka, a cozy restaurant on a dead-end lane. The chef’s 30-plus years of experience are evident as he plucks skewers out of the fryer and presents them to the dozen or so diners squeezed around the wooden U-shaped counter. A recent 20-piece feast included bites of deep-fried mochi, mackerel, shiitake, kabocha, tender ginkgo nuts and an oozy quail egg wrapped in bacon. The set menu takes the guesswork out of ordering and costs 3,800 yen per person.
炸串是指將油炸過的食物串在簽子上,而溫 馨的田中炸串餐館(位於一條死胡同內)將炸串升華成了藝術。店內的大廚已有30餘年的業內經驗,他信心十足地把簽子上炸好的美味擼下來,分給圍坐在U型木 桌邊的十來個顧客。最近的二十樣套餐包括油炸麻糬、鯖魚、香菇、南瓜、鮮白果仁和用培根包裹的溏心鵪鶉蛋。套餐讓顧客免於點餐與猜測之苦,費用大概人均 3800日元。
11. Less-Strange Brew | 11 p.m.
11. 不甚陌生的酒 | 晚上11點
Though craft beer is slowly gaining a foothold in Japan, it’s still a relative rarity in Kyoto. To taste some ji-biru, or domestic microbrews, walk a few blocks west to Bungalow, a 10-tap craft beer bar that opened in 2012. There’s comfortable seating upstairs, but service is better at the streetside standing bar. A wider selection is found at Wachi, a fourth-floor izakaya that recently had Iwate Kura Oyster Stout on tap and a fridge stocked with bottles from Kiuchi Brewery, Baird Brewing Company, and other Japanese craft breweries.
精釀啤酒雖然正緩慢地贏得日本人的歡心, 但在京都仍然略嫌陌生。你可以去品嘗日本的微釀啤酒——地啤酒。向西走過幾個街區,到達平房(Bungalow),這家2012年開業的精釀啤酒屋有十個 龍頭。樓上的座位很舒適,但樓下臨街的立式酒吧里服務更好。四樓的「和知」居酒屋裡藏酒更為豐富,最近開始不間斷供應岩手庫拉牡蠣酒,冰箱里冷藏的酒則包 括木內酒造、拜爾德釀酒公司的產品以及其他日本精釀酒。
SUNDAY
星期日
12. Torii Tunnel | 8 a.m.
12. 鳥居隧道 | 上午8點
Get up early for a peaceful trek to the top of Mount Inari on trails that snake through thousands of vermilion torii, the traditional gates that usually mark the entrance to Shinto shrines. Starting from Fushimi Inari Taisha, a shrine at the base of the mountain dedicated to the Shinto kami (spirit) of rice and prosperity, ascend the path passing under torii spaced so closely together that it sometimes feels like walking through a tunnel. To scale the summit and return down the winding wooded trails, allow two to three hours.
早點起床去爬稻荷山,蜿蜒至山頂的清幽小 路穿過朱紅的千本鳥居(鳥居是日本傳統的神社入口)。山腳的伏見稻荷大社敬奉神道教主管稻米與財富的神靈,從這裡上山,一路上穿過數千道鳥居排列得如此密 集,有時你會恍然覺得自己在隧道中行走。登上山頂再沿着綠樹成蔭的曲折山路下山,大概要2至3個小時。
13. Suntory Time | Noon
13. 在三得利的時光 | 正午
Head southwest of Kyoto to pay homage to the Suntory Yamazaki Distillery, the birthplace of Japanese whiskey. Free hourlong tours explain the distillation process, from malting to mashing to fermentation, and culminate with a sampling of Yamazaki single-malt whiskey with soda. (Reservations required; English audio guides are provided.) Afterward, browse the bottles that line the shelves of the on-site “whiskey library” and visit the tasting counter, which pours samples of top-notch blends and single malts, as well as limited-edition whiskeys available only at the distillery.
直奔京都的西南部,去日本威士忌的發源地 三得利山崎蒸餾所獻上一份敬意。大約一小時的免費遊覽有導遊講解,從麥粒發芽、打漿到發酵,詳細介紹造酒工藝,最後,你可品嘗一杯和着蘇打的單一麥芽威士 忌,遊覽也因此到達最美妙的頂點。(必須預訂;有英語導遊。)然後去現場的「威士忌珍藏館」瀏覽成排酒架上的一隻只酒瓶,走向品酒櫃檯,工作人員會為你斟 一杯:有若干頂級美酒的混合佳釀和單一麥芽威士忌,也有該酒廠獨家製造的限量版威士忌。
THE DETAILS
實用信息
1. Rengeo-in temple, 657 Sanjusangendomawari, Higashiyama-ku; sanjusangendo.jp.
1. 蓮華王院, 東山區 三十三間堂回町657; sanjusangendo.jp.
2. House of Hosoo, 752 Bisyamon-cho, Kamigyo-ku; hosoo-kyoto.com.
2. 細尾家(House of Hosoo),上京區毗沙門町752; hosoo-kyoto.com.
3. Hitomi, 96 Okiku-cho, Sakyo-ku; 81-75-771-7818.
3. 瞳,96 Okiku-cho, 左京區; 81-75-771-7818.
4. Yamatoya, 25 Shogoin Sanno-cho, Sakyo-ku; jazz-yamatoya.com.
4. 大和屋,25 Shogoin Sanno-cho, 左京區; jazz-yamatoya.com.
5. Cafe Gaea, 18 Okazaki Tokusei-cho, Sakyo-ku; 81-75-752-4194. Bar Bunkyu, 534 Ebisu-cho, Nakagyo-ku; barbunkyu.jimdo.com/english. Kazu’s, 309-4 Bizenjima-cho, Nakagyo-ku.
5. 蓋亞咖啡館,18 Okazaki Tokusei-cho, 左京區; 81-75-752-4194. 文久吧, 534 Ebisu-cho, 中京區; barbunkyu.jimdo.com/english. 和家, 309-4 Bizenjima-cho, 中京區.
6. Rokuyousha, 36 Daikoku-cho, Nakagyo-ku; 81-75-221-3820.
6. 六曜社珈琲店,36 Daikoku-cho, 中京區; 81-75-221-3820.
7. Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, 2-5 Sagatoriimoto Fukatani-cho, Ukyo-ku; otagiji.com.
7. 愛宕念仏寺,右京區嵯峨鳥居本深谷町2-5; otagiji.com.
8. Syouraian, Sagakamenoo-cho, Ukyo-ku; syouraian.jp.
8. 松籟庵,Sagakamenoo-cho, 右京區; syouraian.jp.
9. Kyoto Design House, 105 Fukunaga-cho, Nakagyo-ku; kyoto-dh.com/en. Kohchosai Kosuga, 74 Nakajima-cho, Nakagyo-ku; kohchosai.co.jp.
9. 京都設計館,105 Fukunaga-cho, 中京區; kyoto-dh.com/en. 公長齋小菅, 74 Nakajima-cho, 中京區; kohchosai.co.jp.
10. Kushi Tanaka, 310-10 Uradeyama-cho, Nakagyo-ku; kushitanaka.com.
10. 田中炸串,310-10 Uradeyama-cho, 中京區; kushitanaka.com.
11. Bungalow, 15 Kashiwaya-cho, Shimogyo-ku; 81-75-256-8205. Wachi, 571 Obiya-cho, Nakagyo-ku; wachi.info.
11. 平房(Bungalow),15 Kashiwaya-cho, 下京區; 81-75-256-8205. 和知, 571 Obiya-cho, 中京區; wachi.info.
12. Mount Inari/Fushimi Inari Taisha, 68 Fukakusa Yabunouchi-cho, Fushimi-ku;inari.jp.
12. 稻荷山/伏見稻荷大社,伏見區深草藪之內町68番地; inari.jp.
13. Suntory Yamazaki Distillery, 5-2-1 Yamazaki, Shimamoto-cho, Mishima-gun, Osaka; suntory.com/factory/yamazaki.
13. 三得利山崎蒸餾所,大阪府三島郡島本町山崎5-2-1; suntory.com/factory/yamazaki.
LODGING
住宿
Hotel Mume (261 Umemoto-cho, Higashiyama-ku; hotelmume.jp) is one of the few boutique hotels in Kyoto, so plan far in advance to reserve one of the seven rooms, each stylishly furnished with beautiful antiques. Special details range from a daily happy hour to personalized maps and sightseeing recommendations. Doubles from 22,000 yen (about $220).
梅酒店 (261 Umemoto-cho, Higashiyama-ku; hotelmume.jp)是京都僅有的幾家精品酒店之一,有七間客房,所以訂房要儘早。每間客房都時尚華麗,擺着漂亮的古董。特色包括每日歡樂一小時、 私人訂製地圖及觀光推薦等。雙人房起價22000日元(大約220美元)。 
The Royal Park Hotel the Kyoto (74 Nakajima-cho, Nakagyo-ku; rph-the.co.jp/en/kyoto) has a confusing name but a prime location and affordable rates. The 172 rooms are basic and snug but comfortable. There’s also an attractive ground-floor bar and free Wi-Fi. Doubles from 10,400 yen.
京都皇家公園酒店(74 Nakajima-cho, Nakagyo-ku; rph-the.co.jp/en/kyoto)不要被這個名字誤導,它位於黃金地段,但價格適中。172間客房都簡潔緊湊卻又舒適。還有迷人的一樓酒吧和免費wifi。雙人房起價10400日元。

本文最初發表於2014年3月2日。
翻譯:蘭珩