36 Hours in the Hudson Valley, New York
Suzanne DeChillo/The New York Times
By FREDA MOON
Published: July 26, 2013
The Hudson Valley is vast and varied. With hundreds of miles of
sandstone and granite cliffs, cattail-lined riverbanks, former factory
towns, orchards, farmland and forests, the scale of its geography and
the scope of its history are daunting. To spend a weekend dropping into
its musty bookstores and sizable art institutions or idling between
hilltop castles, divey small-town bars and doily B&Bs is like
skipping a stone into a river: you bounce along, but barely break the
surface. From New York City, it’s a one-hour train trip to Peekskill, at
the doorstep of the mid-Hudson Valley, but the region can be fully
explored only on the kind of road trip that skirts one side of the river
and winds down the other, hopscotching between historic estates and
detouring for farm stands, roadside diners and seductive swimming holes.
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FRIDAY
4 p.m.
1. Peek Into Peekskill
1. Peek Into Peekskill
Escape the city early and arrive in Peekskill in time for “hoppy hour” ($5 per 20-ounce pint; $1 raw oysters) at Peekskill Brewery, in a 7,000-square-foot space two blocks from Metro North. Equally worthy, the Birdsall House
takes its name from a local boardinghouse frequented by George
Washington; it has an antique cash register, live music on weekends and
an excellent craft beer list. While in town, drop into Bruised Apple Books,
with a section devoted to the Hudson Valley’s past and present, a pulp
mystery reading room and a vinyl record listening station.
7:30 p.m.
2. Merci Beaucoup
2. Merci Beaucoup
In February, the Culinary Institute of America — a prestigious cooking school housed in a former seminary — opened the Bocuse Restaurant,
replacing the institute’s original teaching restaurant, Escoffier,
which closed last year after 39 years. The space has been reborn with a
new name (a homage to the Lyonnaise chef Paul Bocuse) and an airy,
bistro-style interior by Adam Tihany, who designed such celebrated
Manhattan restaurants as Daniel and Per Se. The French menu includes
Paul Bocuse’s 1975 recipe for black truffle soup with a puff pastry lid
($12), roasted rack of lamb with sunchoke purée and glazed vegetables
($28) and, Tuesday to Thursday, a three-course prix fixe dinner ($39)
that’s an exceptional bargain.
10 p.m.
3. Folkies and Newbies
3. Folkies and Newbies
After dinner, backtrack to Beacon, home to the folk icon Pete Seeger,
who founded one of the area’s largest music events: the Clearwater
Festival (clearwaterfestival.org), staged in Croton-on-Hudson each June. A newcomer to town, Dogwood,
opened in December in a wedge-shaped brick building near Fishkill
Creek, serving adventurous cocktails like the Dutch’s Moonshine- and
Luxardo Maraschino-based “Moondog” ($12). The combination cocktail bar,
restaurant and music venue has fast become a local hangout to rival the
house-made pirogies and charms of the vintage Main Street pub Max’s on Main.
Alternatively, eat early and devote the night to music. Though the
Band’s former drummer, Levon Helm, died over a year ago, the Midnight Rambles he held at his Woodstock studio endure as once- or twice-monthly hootenannies, which start at 8 p.m.
SATURDAY
9 a.m.
4. Cold Spring Comfort
4. Cold Spring Comfort
For breakfast, dip south to Cold Spring and the pale-yellow-walled dining room at Hudson Hil’s Cafe & Market,
where there are comforting mounds of biscuits with sausage gravy
($10.25), raspberry cornmeal pancakes with orange zest (from $6.75) and
specials like chocolate babka French toast ($10.95). Then, walk down to Hudson Valley Outfitters for advice on local hikes, like the not-for-novices Breakneck Ridge Trail (nynjtc.org/hike/breakneck-ridge-trail),
and guided kayak trips (weather depending; from $110), including a
three-mile paddle to Pollepel Island to tour the surreal ruins of
Bannerman Castle ($130 including lunch).
12 p.m.
5. To the Border and Beyond
5. To the Border and Beyond
Route 9 seems an unlikely location for Texas-style dry-rubbed,
hickory-smoked brisket (marbled or lean), sausage (spicy or mild) and
ribs so tender the meat barely clings to the bone, but Roundup Texas Barbeque
is the real deal. It is housed in a trailer parked alongside a former
gas station, and serves smoked meats, Lone Star beer ($4) and classic
sides like Frito pie, and jalapeño mac ‘n’ cheese. Combo plates (two
meats, two sides) start at $16.50. For another relative rarity in the
area, take the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge across the river to Uriel Tacos,
which sells a half dozen or so kinds of tacos, including chorizo and
oreja (ear), and specials like slow-cooked goat barbacoa and shrimp
caldo (soup) on weekends.
2 p.m.
6. Tasting Trails
6. Tasting Trails
Housed in a former grist mill, the Tuthilltown Distillery
became New York State’s first post-Prohibition whiskey distillery in
2007, selling its four-grain bourbon, Manhattan rye and single-malt
whiskey under the Hudson Whiskey label. On weekends, tours are offered
at noon, 2 and 4 p.m. ($15, including a three-spirit tasting). If wine’s
your thing, the Shawangunk Wine Trail (shawangunkwinetrail.com) highlights 14 wineries, including Benmarl Winery, which claims to be the oldest vineyard in the country. The Hudson Valley Cider Alliance (cideralliance.com) is yet another beverage-centric option.
4 p.m.
7. Walking on Water
7. Walking on Water
In 2009, after years of abandonment, the fire-damaged Poughkeepsie-Highland Railroad Bridge was restored and reopened as the Walkway Over the Hudson,
a State Historic Park and one of the longest elevated pedestrian
bridges in the world. Walk its 1.28-mile expanse in the late afternoon,
when the Hudson’s celebrated light is at its most captivating. Then,
take a drive through New Paltz and out on Mountain Rest Road, past the
144-year-old Mohonk Mountain House lake resort, to the Mohonk Preserve.
Continue through the hamlets of High Falls and Stone Ridge, and over
the Ashokan Reservoir, one of New York City’s pristine water sources.
Along the way, stop in at the Last Bite for a cup of Catskill Mountain Coffee or kitschy, 1970s-era Egg’s Nest Saloon for a Sicilian egg cream ($2.75) or a slice of strawberry-rhubarb pie ($4.50).
6 p.m.
8. Old World Redux
8. Old World Redux
Take two-lane back roads to Gunk Haus Restaurant,
sit on the biergarten deck and look out over apple orchards and “the
Gunks” — the Shawangunk Mountains, one of the country’s best-known rock-
climbing ridges. Try the German breaded pork loin jaeger schnitzel,
served with wild mushroom ragout and spaetzle ($19) or the addictive
obatzda ($3), a Bavarian cheese dip that’s a potent mix of Camembert,
Gorgonzola, beer and spices, and served with a chewy house-made pretzel.
10 p.m.
9. The Kingston Trio
9. The Kingston Trio
When Stockade Tavern opened
three years ago, selling sophisticated cocktails in a one-time Singer
sewing machine factory in Kingston’s 17th-century Stockade District, the
bar’s arrival foreshadowed changes for New York’s former capital. Since
then, the decade-old BSP Lounge
has gained enthusiastic new management and has become a sort of
musician’s living room, hosting local and touring bands in a former
vaudeville theater. Near the waterfront, the casual Rondout Music Lounge has a maritime aesthetic that evokes the nearby Hudson River Maritime Museum
and the casual welcome of a neighborhood coffeehouse. For a more
subdued evening, catch an indie movie in an old, white-steepled
Methodist church building, now Upstate Films’ newest theater, in Woodstock.
SUNDAY
9 a.m.
10. Vintage Catskills
10. Vintage Catskills
Go for a light breakfast at {outdated},
an antiques shop and cafe where mod furniture and paint-by-number
paintings are sold alongside pastries and egg sandwiches. Then, drive
into the hills behind Woodstock to the 900-acre Overlook Wild Forest.
Look for the parking lot of the Overlook Mountain Fire Tower trail
across Meads Mountain Road from the Tibetan Buddhist monastery, strung
with prayer flags (there are free tours at 1 p.m. on weekends). The hike
follows a wooded former carriage road to the eerie ruins of a
19th-century Catskills resort and onto the 60-foot fire tower; climb the
steel structure for views that extend from the Berkshires to the
Catskills.
11 a.m.
11. Hudson on the Hudson
11. Hudson on the Hudson
With dozens of showrooms selling midcentury furniture with five-figure
price tags, Hudson feels incongruously cosmopolitan. For brunch, sit in
the backyard patio at Cafe Le Perche,
a bistro and boulangerie with a bar and blazing fireplace (in season)
that serves spiced brioche French toast with poached pear ($10) and a
roasted four-mushroom tartine with melted Brie, baguette, micro greens
and truffle oil ($11.50). Then, spend a couple of hours coveting
antiques on Warren Street. The Hudson Antiques Dealers Association (hudsonantiques.net) has a guide to the 40-plus artfully curated shops. Built in 1855 as the city’s first City Hall, the restored Hudson Opera House
has been transformed into a lively cultural center with a an
ever-changing event calendar, a gallery that’s open noon to 5 p.m. daily
and guided building tours (free).
2 p.m.
12. Far From Old School
12. Far From Old School
Heading out of town, stop at the Olana State Historic Site,
and the 250-acre estate of the 19th-century painter Frederic Edwin
Church. The property, which is crisscrossed with trails and planted with
Church’s “designed landscape,” is crowned by an elaborate Persian-style
home that now holds a collection of works by Hudson Valley School
painters. Back in Beacon is the sprawling, contemporary museum DIA Beacon
— equal parts amusing, bewildering and bizarre. Don’t be surprised to
turn a corner and meet an erotic hangman figure flashing in hot-pink
neon in the distance.
LODGINGS
On 75 acres along the Hudson River, Buttermilk Falls Inn + Spa (220 North Road, Milton; buttermilkfallsinn.com) has 17 rooms and suites, a farm-to-table restaurant and spa with an indoor pool. Rooms start at $300 in high season.
Opened last year in a historic mill in Beacon, the 14 rooms (from $339 mid-week) at Roundhouse at Beacon Falls (2 East Main Street, Beacon; roundhousebeacon.com)
overlook a roaring waterfall, the ultimate white noise machine. There’s
also a restaurant with a wide patio above the water, a stylish bar with
a fireplace and an in-house yoga studio.