Gustave Flaubert reportedly once said that he wrote his novels to resemble a particular color. “In ‘Madame Bovary,’ ” he remarked, “all I was after was to render a special tone, that color of the moldiness of a wood-louse’s existence.” He may well have achieved that with his depiction of illusory love in his novel. But Rouen, France — Flaubert’s birthplace and the setting for a good portion of “Madame Bovary” — evokes a different mood altogether.