Graham MacIndoe for The New York Times
左上起順時針：利思碼頭、皇家植物園、蘇格蘭國家肖像藝術館、海灘酒吧、皇家英里大道。
By SUSAN STELLIN August 02, 2013
36小時玩轉愛丁堡SUSAN STELLIN 2013年08月02日Tourists descend on Edinburgh every August for the Edinburgh International Festival, a citywide celebration of theater, music, opera and dance performances; the nearly 3,000 Festival Fringe shows; and the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo — military bands playing pipes and drums followed by fireworks. But the Scottish capital's historic sites and winding walks offer a different charm at quieter times of the year, and its restaurants are the highlight of any visit. Haggis and fish and chips now share menu space with local, organic and sustainable fare, and there is a cafe, restaurant or bar on practically every block. That means you can happily eat and drink your way through the city if the weather is wet — which is not unlikely, so plan your outdoor activities around the daily forecast. Before your trip, check The List (list.co.uk) for restaurant reviews and a guide to exhibitions, shows and events.每年8月，遊客們蜂擁而來，參加愛丁堡國際藝術節(Edinburgh International Festival)。這是個全城範圍的節慶活動，內容包括電影、戲劇、音樂和舞蹈表演，還有3000場藝穗節(Festival Fringe)演出以及皇家愛丁堡軍樂表演（Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo，包括管類和鼓類樂器的演奏），之後還有盛大焰火表演。但這個蘇格蘭首府的歷史景點和蜿蜒的步行便道讓相對安靜的季節有了別樣的魅力，當地的美食場所則一年四季都有亮點。哈吉斯、炸魚薯條現在常與當地的有機食品和環保美食出現在同一張菜單上，幾乎每個社區都有咖啡館、餐館或酒吧。那意味著下雨天，你可以在回家的時候快樂地一路走一路吃。下雨並不是不可能的事，所以規劃室外活動的時候請留意天氣預報。出發之前請登陸點評網站The List(list.co.uk)，查找當地餐館點評，以及展覽、演出和其他活動的指南。FRIDAY星期五3 p.m.1. Small Plates & Portraits下午3點1. 開胃小菜和肖像
Graham MacIndoe for The New York Times
Start your culinary tour at Urban Angel on Hanover Street (121 Hanover Street; urban-angel.co.uk) near Queen Street Gardens, where the cakes, muffins and croissants pair nicely with a mug of fair-trade coffee or a cup of Earl Grey tea. Little plates and salads (£4 to £7, or $5.95 to $10.35 at $1.48 to the pound) emphasize organic and seasonal greens, like polenta bites with rocket (arugula) and Parmesan or a Caesar salad with pancetta and anchovies. Once sated, pop into the newly renovated Scottish National Portrait Gallery on Queen Street (1 Queen Street; nationalgalleries.org), one of Edinburgh's many free museums. Featuring portraits of famous Scots — though not all by Scottish artists — the collection ranges from paintings of historic figures like Mary Queen of Scots to portraits of actors like Sean Connery; the Portrait Gallery also has an extensive collection of photography.在漢諾威大街(Hanover Street)的都市天使(Urban Angel; 121 Hanover Street; urban-angel.co.uk)開始你的美食之旅。這家餐館位於女王大街公園(Queen Street Gardens)附近，就著一杯公平貿易咖啡或一杯格雷伯爵茶享受店裡的蛋糕、麥芬餅和羊角麵包，可謂完美組合。碟裝小菜和各式色拉（4—7英鎊，根據英鎊對美元1.48的匯率，約合5.95—10.35美元）都強調有機和當季的蔬菜，比如加了岩石菜（芝麻葉）和帕瑪臣奶酪的雜糧塊兒，或加了意大利培根和鳳尾魚的愷撒色拉。吃 飽喝足以後，就到女王大街上探訪新近翻修的蘇格蘭國家肖像藝術館(Scottish National Portrait Gallery on Queen Street; 1 Queen Street; nationalgalleries.org)，這是愛丁堡為數眾多的免費博物館之一。肖像藝術館以蘇格蘭名人肖像著稱——儘管畫家不都是蘇格蘭人，模特既有蘇格蘭瑪麗女王等歷史人物，也有肖恩·康納利(Sean Connery)等當代演員。肖像藝術館還有大量的攝影作品。4 p.m.2. Stair Climb下午4點2. 爬樓梯If the sky is clear, climb the 287 steps to the top of the Scott Monument (East Princes Street Gardens; edinburghmuseums.org.uk; £4), a Gothic tower built in the 1840s to honor the writer Sir Walter Scott. The circular stone staircase narrows precipitously as you ascend, but if you can squeeze past other visitors on their way down (which can involve some sideways maneuvers), you'll be rewarded with 360-degree views of the city. After descending, recuperate on a bench in Princes Street Gardens, once a flooded valley protecting Edinburgh Castle that is now a bucolic spot for a break. Then browse the paintings and sculpture at the nearby Scottish National Gallery (The Mound/Princes Street; nationalgalleries.org). The collection includes works by such artists as Gauguin, Bernini and Sir Henry Raeburn. Often a kilt-wearing bagpiper will be playing on the esplanade outside.如果天氣晴好，請試試攀登287級台階到達斯科特紀念碑（Scott Monument；East Princes Street Gardens； edinburghmuseums.org.uk；4英鎊）的頂部。這座建於1840年代的哥特式高塔是用來紀念作家沃爾特·斯科特爵士(Sir Walter Scott)的。圓環形的石頭樓梯隨著你攀登的步伐越來越陡峭，越來越狹窄。但如果你能側身避開下行的遊客（有時候你會被擠進狹窄的旁側空間），就會換來360度視野俯瞰該城風光的機會。回到地面以後，可到公主大街花園(Princes Street Gardens)的長凳上休息。這個公園以前是個洪水沖刷出的山谷，圍繞並保護著旁邊的愛丁堡城堡(Edinburgh Castle)，現在是個充滿田園色彩的休閒勝地。接 下來，請到附近的蘇格蘭國家畫廊(Scottish National Gallery; The Mound/Princes Street; nationalgalleries.org)欣賞繪畫和雕塑，這裡的藏品包括高更(Gauguin)、貝爾尼尼(Bernini)和亨利·魯伯恩爵士(Sir Henry Raeburn)等藝術家的作品。門外的廣場上，經常有穿著蘇格蘭短裙的風笛手進行表演。6 p.m.3. Pub Stop下午6點3. 酒吧休憩Drop by the Doric (15-16 Market Street; the-doric.com), one of the city's oldest pubs, to sample the selection of 50 single-malt whiskies or the Edinburgh-brewed ales on tap. Built in the 17th century, it was originally a linen shop but now serves whiskies ranging from a 10-year-old Glenmorangie (£4) to a 30-year-old Balvenie (£30). Even the Doric is promoting “fresh local produce” served in the bistro upstairs, but downstairs at the bar you can munch on a more traditional snack: a bag of salt and vinegar crisps.在該城最古老的多利安酒吧(Doric; 15-16 Market Street; the-doric.com)停留一下，在50多種單一麥芽威士忌中挑幾種品嚐，或暢飲散裝的愛丁堡當地啤酒。酒吧建於17世紀，最初是一個亞麻作坊，但現在供應各種酒水，從10年的格蘭傑（Glenmorangie；4英鎊）到30年的巴爾維尼（Balvenie；30英鎊）。雖然多利安宣稱樓上的小飯館中供應“當地新鮮食品”，但你也可以在樓下的酒吧大嚼一種更為傳統的零食：裝在袋中的鹹酸味薯片。8 p.m.4. Bistro Buzz晚上8點4. 小酒館吃喝The whitewashed walls and minimalist décor at the Outsider brasserie (15 George IV Bridge; 44-131-226-3131) contrast with stately views of Edinburgh Castle through the dining room's rear picture windows. The mostly Mediterranean main dishes (£13 to £19 ) include options like steamed mussels with bacon and pine nuts, roast rack of lamb with Parmesan potato cake, or hazelnut gnocchi with shiitake mushrooms, spinach and pecorino cheese. Reservations recommended, especially at peak times. If you have energy left after dinner, stop by the Bar Missoni down the street for a nightcap, mingling with the fashionable crowd at the Hotel Missoni.旁觀者飯店(Outsider brasserie; 15 George IV Bridge; 44-131-226-3131)的白牆和極簡主義的裝飾與餐廳後窗壯麗的愛丁堡城堡風光形成了鮮明的對比。最具地中海特色的主菜（13—19英鎊）包括加了培根和松仁的蒸貽貝、搭配帕瑪臣土豆餅的烤羊肉，放有香菇、菠菜和佩科里諾羊乳乾酪的榛仁麵團子。建議提前訂座，高峰時段尤需如此。如果飯後你還有精力，可到同一條街的米索尼酒吧(Bar Missoni)喝杯睡前酒，並與米索尼酒店(Hotel Missoni)時尚人群聊天和社交。SATURDAY星期六10 a.m.5. Royal Stroll上午10點5. 皇家漫步No visit to Edinburgh would be complete without a walk up the Royal Mile, which stretches from the Palace of Holyroodhouse (Holyrood Road; royalcollection.org.uk), the Queen's official residence in Scotland, to Edinburgh Castle, arguably the city's most famous landmark . Near the palace, you can't miss the more modern Scottish Parliament (Canongate; scottish.parliament.uk), which opened to mixed reviews in 2004. It will be in the spotlight again when Scotland votes on a referendum in 2014 to decide whether to become independent or remain part of Britain. The route is lined with tourist shops, but be sure to explore the narrow alleys called closes that lead off the Royal Mile. Many have names referencing a past use, like the Fleshmarket Close, once home to a meat market (also the title of a crime novel by the Scottish writer Ian Rankin).如果不到皇家一英里大道(Royal Mile)散步，愛丁堡的旅程就不算完整。這條路線的起點是以前蘇格蘭女王的住所荷里路德宮(Palace of Holyroodhouse; Holyrood Road; royalcollection.org.uk)，終點是號稱該城最著名地標的愛丁堡城堡。城堡附近更加摩登的蘇格蘭議會大廈(Scottish Parliament; Canongate; scottish.parliament.uk)也不容錯過，它從2004年對公眾開放以來引發了許多爭議，2014年當蘇格蘭就是否從英國獨立出去的公民投票結果出來以後，這座建築會再次置身鎂光燈下。皇家一英里大道的兩側排滿了旅遊紀念品商店，但別忘了探索大道周邊俗稱死胡同的那些狹窄街巷。許多巷名都採用了以前的名字，比如生鮮市場巷(Fleshmarket Close)以前就是一個鮮肉市場所在地（這個巷名也是蘇格蘭作家伊恩·蘭金[Ian Rankin]一部小說的名字）。11 a.m.6. Castle Visit上午11點6. 探訪城堡End your stroll at Edinburgh Castle (Castlehill; edinburghcastle.gov.uk), which sits atop the volcanic hill known as Castle Rock. If you spring for the £16 entry fee, you can tour the buildings behind the fortress walls, including the Great Hall, the Royal Palace and St. Margaret's Chapel, which was built in the 12th century and is the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh. Up near the castle, Edinburgh's Camera Obscura, dating back to the 1850s, is also worth a visit on a clear day. Visitors gather in a dark room to view live images of the surrounding city, created by using a mirror, lenses and a hole in the ceiling that lets in light — relying on principles of refraction that work best when the sun is shining.在愛丁堡城堡(Castlehill; edinburghcastle.gov.uk)結束你的漫步。這個城堡建在一座叫城堡石的小火山上。如果你捨得購買16英鎊的門票，就可以遊覽城堡高牆之內的建築，包括大廳(Great Hall)、皇宮(Royal Palace)和聖瑪格麗特教堂(St. Margaret's Chapel)。聖瑪格麗特教堂建於12世紀，是愛丁堡現存最古老的建築物。城堡附近是1850年代建造的愛丁堡暗箱(Camera Obscura)，在天氣晴朗的日子非常值得一看。遊客們擠在一間陰暗的屋子裡，爭相欣賞城市周邊的現場景觀。暗箱包括一塊鏡子、幾個鏡頭和天花板上一個用來透光的孔洞，利用光的折射原理製造出視覺奇觀，陽光燦爛的時候效果最佳。Noon7. History Lesson正午7. 歷史課On your way back down the hill, take a detour to the National Museum of Scotland on Chambers Street, which also just completed a renovation in 2011. The diverse exhibits cover Scottish history, the natural world, science, art and design, with lots of child-pleasing options like a dinosaur skeleton and a steam locomotive. But one of the museum's most famous attractions is definitely Dolly, the cloned sheep created at the University of Edinburgh, now preserved for posterity by taxidermists.下山的路上，請繞道錢伯斯大街(Chambers Street)去探訪蘇格蘭國家博物館(National Museum of Scotland)，這個地方2011年也剛剛經過一次翻新。裡面的展覽主題多樣，涵蓋了蘇格蘭歷史、自然世界、科學、藝術和設計，還有不少深受兒童喜歡的東西，比如恐龍骨架和一個蒸汽小火車。但博物館最著名的看點絕對是克隆羊多利(Dolly)，當年它由愛丁堡大學(University of Edinburgh)研製而成，死後它的遺體做成了標本供人參觀。1:30 p.m.8. To the Dogs下午1:308. 去群狗餐吧(Dogs)Offering a simple take on the gastropub tradition, the Dogs (110 Hanover Street; thedogsonline.co.uk) serves Scottish favorites like steak and mushroom pie (£7.45), haggis, black pudding and bacon hash with a fried duck egg (£6.35 ) and fish and chips with mushy peas (£6.95). For vegetarians, there's a roasted squash, goat cheese and spring onion barley risotto (£6.45). Portraits and statues of dogs adorn the walls and line the staircase, as if awaiting a taste of your meal. After lunch, explore the shops on nearby George and Princes streets, a mix of familiar global brands and the ornate department store Jenners, a longtime institution in Edinburgh.群狗餐吧(Dogs; 110 Hanover Street; thedogsonline.co.uk)是研究當地餐吧傳統的一個好去處。這裡供應蘇格蘭人最愛的多種餐飲，比如牛排蘑菇餅（7.45英鎊），哈吉斯、黑布丁和搭配了煮鴨蛋的培根土豆泥（6.35英鎊），以及搭配豌豆糊的炸魚薯條（ 6.95英鎊）。素食主義者可以享受那裡的烤南瓜、山羊奶酪、香蔥大麥意大利調味飯（6.45英鎊）。飯店的牆壁和樓梯都裝飾著群狗的畫像和雕塑，彷彿它們隨時都想嚐一下你的盤中美食。午飯之後，請探索喬治大街(George street)和王子大街(Princes street)上的商店，這裡既有熟悉的國際大牌，也有本地百貨公司杰納斯(Jenners)——愛丁堡一家以華麗著稱的老牌商場。4 p.m.9. Flowers and Tea下午4點9. 花朵和茶If the weather is nice — it can shift quickly in Scotland — it's worth a visit to Edinburgh's 70-acre Royal Botanic Garden (20A Inverleith Row; rbge.org.uk). Highlights include the Glasshouses, home to palm trees and tropical plants, the Queen Mother's Memorial Garden and the Scottish Heath Garden, featuring plants commonly found in the Scottish highlands. It's also a nice place for a break to enjoy the greenery of Scotland, or have an afternoon cup of tea at the Terrace Cafe. (To keep up with the locals, aim for several cups of tea every day.)蘇格蘭的天氣可謂瞬息萬變。如果天氣不錯，愛丁堡佔地70英畝的皇家植物園(Royal Botanic Garden; 20A Inverleith Row; rbge.org.uk)非常值得一去。它 的亮點包括許多間溫室、養育了多種棕櫚樹和熱帶植物、太后時代紀念花園(Queen Mother's Memorial Garden)和專注於蘇格蘭高地(Scottish highlands)植物的蘇格蘭希斯花園(Scottish Heath Garden)。植物園是一邊享受蘇格蘭綠蔭一邊休息的好地方，也可以在露天咖啡館(Terrace Cafe)裡喝杯下午茶（為了像個當地人，請努力做到每天都喝幾杯茶）。7 p.m.10. By the River下午7點10. 河流之畔Head down to Leith, Edinburgh's port on the Firth of Forth, an industrial waterfront that is now a dining and drinking destination, including restaurants that boast Michelin stars. Have a drink at the Shore (3 Shore; fishersbistros.co.uk), an old wood-paneled pub overlooking the Water of Leith, then wander a few blocks up to the Vintage (60 Henderson Street; thevintageleith.co.uk) for dinner. Serving craft beer, a grazing menu of charcuterie like hot-smoked pig cheeks ( £3) and main dishes like rainbow trout and beet root with foraged greens (£12.50), the Vintage blends traditional and modern cooking in an atmosphere that offers a similar mix. Dishes arrive on wooden boards, but the open kitchen and sleek lighting lend a more urban feel to the décor.請直奔利思(Leith)而去。利思是福斯灣(Firth of Forth)在愛丁堡的港口，也是當地一個繁忙熱鬧的碼頭，擠滿了吃喝玩樂場所，包括以米其林星評為傲的幾家餐廳。到海灘酒吧(Shore; 3 Shore; fishersbistros.co.uk)喝一杯。這家古老的酒吧俯瞰著利思河(Water of Leith)，裝飾以木條為特色。接下來再走幾個街區，到古典飯店(Vintage; 60 Henderson treet; thevintageleith.co.uk)吃晚餐。它供應精釀啤酒和種類繁多的熟食，比如高溫熏烤的豬臉肉（3英鎊）、主菜有搭配甜菜根和其他蔬菜的虹鱒魚（12.50英鎊）等。古典飯店融合了傳統和當代美食，現場氣氛也同時體現了新舊兩種氣質。菜品是放在木板上端上桌的，但開放式廚房和優雅的照明讓裝修多了些都市感覺。SUNDAY星期日10 a.m.11. Up the Hill上午10點11. 登上山頂Start the day with a walk up Calton Hill, arguably the city's best vantage point, with views of Leith and the Firth of Forth, Edinburgh Castle and the volcanic hill known as Arthur's Seat. At the top of Calton Hill, the 12 Doric columns of the unfinished National Monument were meant to honor those who died in the Napoleonic Wars, but are now referred to as “Edinburgh's disgrace.” For an even higher view, climb Nelson Monument, a telescope-shaped tower built to commemorate Admiral Horatio Nelson's victory ( and death) in the Battle of Trafalgar.以登頂卡爾頓山(Calton Hill)來作為一天的開始。卡爾頓山據說是該城最好的觀景點，可以看到利思碼頭、福斯灣、愛丁堡城堡和號稱亞瑟王寶座(Arthur's Seat)的幾座火山。站在卡爾頓山的頂峰，可以看到沒有竣工的國立紀念碑(National Monument)上12根多利安式圓柱。國立紀念碑本來打算紀念拿破崙戰爭(Napoleonic Wars)中犧牲的軍人，但現在卻被稱作“愛丁堡之恥”。如果想站在更高的地方看風景，請爬上納爾遜紀念碑(Nelson Monument)。那是一座望遠鏡形狀的高塔，用來紀念霍雷肖·納爾遜上將(Admiral Horatio Nelson)在特拉法加戰役(Battle of Trafalgar)中的勝利（與犧牲）。Noon12. Local Lunch正午12. 本地午餐Occupying a 19th-century building that once housed the gardener who tended the Royal Terrace Gardens (below Calton Hill), the Gardener's Cottage (1 Royal Terrace Gardens, enter from London Road; thegardenerscottage.co) serves seasonal dishes to diners at three communal tables . A chalkboard menu announces specialties, like carrot soup (£5), crowdie (a Scottish cheese) and wild garlic quiche (£6) or hake with braised lettuce, bacon and fermented chard (£15). The staff does double-duty attending to a record player near the entrance, spinning jazz and other tunes that create an ambience well suited to a garden meal.園 丁木屋飯店（Gardener's Cottage; 1 Royal Terrace Gardens，正門在倫敦路[London Road]上； thegardenerscottage.co）設在一座19世紀的建築裡，以前的主人是負責照料皇家台地花園（Royal Terrace Gardens；位於卡爾頓山腳下）的園丁。飯店的三張公用餐桌上供應多種當季菜餚。用粉筆寫在黑板上的菜單顯示了這裡的特色菜，比如胡蘿蔔湯（5英鎊），克朗迪乾酪（一種蘇格蘭特產奶酪）、加了野蒜的乳蛋餅（6英鎊），或者搭配燉萵苣、培根和醃甜菜的鱈魚（15英鎊）。飯店服務員身兼兩職，負責照料入口附近的卡式錄音機，播放爵士等多種音樂作品，營造出與花園美食非常和諧的一種氛圍。LODGING住宿The newly renovated Glasshouse Hotel (2 Greenside Place; theglasshousehotel.co.uk) at the foot of Calton Hill has rooms from £150, some with terraces, all with access to a two-acre roof garden.位於卡爾頓山腳下的葛拉思豪斯酒店(Glasshouse Hotel；2 Greenside Place;theglasshousehotel.co.uk)最近剛剛經過翻新，房價150英鎊起。部分客房帶陽台，每間客房都能通向面積2英畝的屋頂花園。Hotel Missoni Edinburgh (1 George IV Bridge; hotelmissoni.com), just off the Royal Mile, offers colorful rooms from £170 and the stylish Bar Missoni.愛丁堡米索尼酒店(Hotel Missoni Edinburgh; 1 George IV Bridge; hotelmissoni.com), 就在皇家英里旁邊，色彩斑斕的客房170英鎊起，還有個時髦漂亮的米索尼酒吧(Bar Missoni)。
Copyright © 2013 The New York Times Company. All rights reserved.本文最初發表於2013年7月14日。翻譯：納蘭雪野
EDINBURGH
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DAY THREE: A LIBRARY AND A COFFEE HOUSE
Wednesday: Why the internet might be making us smarter. Plus
Leonard Cohen, reproduced, two old gits, a couple of boys dressed for
bed and an art historian
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DAY TWO: HUMOUR FROM THE EMERALD ISLE, CHILLING TRANSLATIONS FROM CHINA
Tuesday: An up-and-coming funny woman, Ma Jian on China's
children, Red Bastard gets provocative, Three Lions prove familiar
and Chris Ware pulls a crowd
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DAY ONE: HAMLET, DOIG AND AN IMPATIENT AUDIENCE
Monday: Simon Willis is frustrated by the Wooster Group's "Hamlet" but impressed by George Monbiot, and Robert Butler delights in Peter Doig's paintings
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