The
restaurant in Moscow’s Kazan station has never quite matched that of
the Gare de Lyon for the sheer quality of meals on offer, but its
riotous Rococo ceiling is hard to beat, an architectural dessert
seemingly whipped up in a kitchen rather than drawn to plan in a studio.
Kazan is the Russian city’s biggest station. Here, comfortable
overnight trains, many still equipped with kitchen cars where fresh food
is prepared and cooked, menus changing down the line according to
what’s available from local markets, disappear across the boundless
steppes to Rostov-on-Don, Tashkent and Yekaterinburg and Kazan itself.
The architecture of the station itself is a decidedly rich and spicy
dish served up by Alexey Shchusev, who worked for the Tsars and Stalin
alike. An expert in local Russian historical styles, he fused many of
these together in the design of Kazan station: here you can find Art
Nouveau details dancing with architectural motifs drawn from the Kremlin
as well as elements from Kazan itself, the capital of Tatarstan after
which the Moscow terminus is named. Such was the richness of the
structure and decoration, the station was not completed until 1940.
Shchusev also designed the stunning Komsomolskaya Moscow Metro station
complete with a lavish 17th Century-style interior. Here, as with Kazan
station was architecture seemingly good enough to eat – or at least a
feast for the eyes of a Tsar or Communist dictator. (Corbis)
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