2025年3月31日 星期一

曼德勒Mandalay瓦城 小記 維基《經濟學人》 亞當羅伯茨

 亞當羅伯茨

來自河內的問候,


身為一名年輕記者,我第一次報道的旅行之一就是潛入緬甸。我清楚記得自己走過燈光昏暗、幾乎寂靜無聲的仰光(當時我們稱之為首都),在安靜的角落裡與民主活動人士交談。道路上空無一人,傍晚時分,我看見老鼠在路上蹦蹦跳跳,不受打擾。為了了解壓抑的政治,我學會了坐在簡陋茶室的矮凳上等待雨季的到來。只有當雨下雷鳴,人們知道警察或間諜暫時無法竊聽時,才會向我敞開心扉。那已經是二十五年前的事了。到 2017 年我回國時,我們接受了這個國家是緬甸的事實,而仰光(1844 年我們在《經濟學人》上首次使用這個名字)已經變成了仰光。首都已遷至內陸的內比都,而曾被尊崇為勇敢的民主活動家的翁山蘇姬卻讓我沮喪地變成了一個叛徒。


我住在伊洛瓦底江畔的一座前皇城曼德勒,參觀了其被護城河環繞的美麗宮殿,並在文學節上發表了演講。在那裡,我看到了一個國家正在發生的變化。這個曾是亞洲孤立和欠發達地區的例外,如今卻成為一個典型的喧鬧、快速成長、消費主導的經濟體。您可以從路上摩托車的轟鳴聲、燈火通明的城市以及——同樣明顯的——大量匆忙建造的混凝土和玻璃城市建築中感受到它。正如我在許多較貧窮的亞洲地區看到的那樣,地震對於大量人口聚集在鋼筋混凝土大塊區域內的人來說最為致命。我經歷過幾次地震,包括和家人一起經歷過,當時我緊張地感覺到建築物在搖晃。每次我都深深感激我們的結構是健全的。


週五發生的 7.7 級地震距離曼德勒非常近。死亡人數無疑高達數千人。鑑於該國的壓迫狀態、持續的內戰以及軍事統治者不願讓援助機構、記者或其他人自由進入,死亡人數可能永遠不會為人所知。我認為,這場災難——大自然的原始力量和人類的粗製濫造的建築相結合——不會帶來政治後果。政府將繼續專注於戰爭並透過武力維持權力。今晚請造訪《經濟學人》網站,了解我們對緬甸事件的最新分析。


在其他地方,我們正在期待一個重要的日子——4 月 2 日。您是否準備好舉辦派對來慶祝唐納德·特朗普所說的“解放日”?這裡有一個提示:如果週三有客人帶著禮物或一瓶葡萄酒過來,在讓他們進家門之前,一定要徵收額外的稅。當然,幾乎沒有人會歡迎川普徵收額外的關稅。即使你認為提高進口稅是合理的(事實並非如此),但他以傲慢的方式威脅、徵收、有時甚至取消這些稅,也為所有人增添了不確定性。難怪股市、消費者信心和其他指標都表明,先前蓬勃發展的經濟正在放緩,或許是急劇放緩。川普也許不會引發徹底的經濟衰退——至少目前還沒有——但很明顯,美國將面臨通膨上升和經濟成長放緩。讓美國再次停滯?


如果美國人購買汽車時面臨價格衝擊,我預期川普自身的支持率將受到影響。我們的追蹤器一直在追蹤川普的支持率,過去幾週已經顯示出明顯的下降趨勢。他的淨支持率再次為負,抹去了自 11 月初以來略微上漲的勢頭。我的預測是──就像以往歷屆總統的預測一樣──從現在起,經濟將會穩定下滑。


北美另一個值得關注的日期是加拿大大選。透過我們的民調追蹤器關注將於 4 月 28 日舉行的那場重要(且並非無關)的比賽。如果您覺得這一切太過複雜,又想嘗試謎題,我們現在每週都會發布一個迷你填字遊戲。


最後,非常感謝您提名您最喜歡的機場的所有回覆。我了解到這份時事通訊的全球讀者都是非常有旅遊經驗的人。我現在有一長串想去的地方的清單——首先,我迫切需要一個藉口去太平洋的一個偏遠島嶼進行一次報道之旅。我們已將您的部分回覆發表為一篇文章,請您閱讀。為了繼續這個主題,我現在想問一個更消極的問題:您經歷過的最糟糕的機場是哪一個,為什麼?請發送電子郵件至economictoday@economist.com 與我聯繫。

Yàdāng luóbócí

Adam Roberts
Digital editor

Hello from Hanoi,

One of my first reporting trips as a young correspondent was to sneak into Burma. I vividly remember walking through dimly lit and almost silent Rangoon, as we then called the capital, speaking in hushed corners to democracy activists. Roads were so empty that I watched rats skipping along them, undisturbed, in the evenings. To hear about the repressive politics, I learned to wait on low stools in shabby tea rooms for monsoon downpours. Only when the rain thundered, and people knew that for a spell the police or spies could not eavesdrop, would they open up to me. That was a quarter of a century ago. By the time I returned, in 2017, we accepted that the country was Myanmar and that Rangoon (a name we first used in The Economist in 1844) had become Yangon. The capital had shifted inland, to Naypyidaw, and Aung San Suu Kyi, once revered as a brave democracy activist, had, to my dismay, become a sell-out. 

I stayed in Mandalay, a former royal city on the Irrawaddy River, visiting its wonderful moat-circled palace and speaking at a literature festival. There, I saw a country being transformed. A place that had been an exception in Asia for its isolation and lack of development now buzzed as a typically noisy, fast-growing, consumer-led economy. You felt it in the roar of motorbikes on the roads, the brightly lit cities and—just as obvious—from the mass of concrete-and-glass urban sprawl, much of it erected in haste. As I’ve seen across much of poorer Asia, earthquakes are most deadly where huge populations congregate inside large blocks of poorly reinforced concrete. I’ve been in a few quakes, including with my family, and nervously felt my building sway. Each time I was deeply grateful to know that our structure was sound.

The 7.7-magnitude earthquake that struck on Friday was very close to Mandalay. The death toll is undoubtedly many thousands high. Given the repressive state of the country, the ongoing civil war and the military rulers’ reluctance to let aid agencies, journalists or others have free access, the number of dead probably won’t be known, ever. The disaster—a combination of nature’s raw force and man’s shoddy building—will have no political consequences, I suspect. The government will remain preoccupied by war and holding on to power through force. Visit The Economist’s website this evening for our latest analysis of the events in Myanmar.

Elsewhere, we are looking ahead to a momentous date, April 2nd. Are you set to celebrate “Liberation Day”, as Donald Trump calls it, perhaps by hosting a party? Here’s a tip: if a guest shows up with a gift or bottle of wine on Wednesday, be sure to levy an extra tax on it, before letting them into your home. Almost no one, of course, will relish the arrival of Mr Trump’s extra tariffs. Even if you thought higher taxes on imports made sense (they don’t), the cavalier way he threatens, imposes and sometimes removes them, is adding uncertainty for all. No wonder stockmarkets, consumer sentiment and other indicators point to a previously roaring economy slowing, perhaps sharply. Mr Trump may not be triggering an outright recession—not yet—but it’s clear that America is set for higher inflation and sluggish growth. Make America stagnate again? 

If there’s a sticker shock for Americans buying cars, I’d expect Mr Trump’s own popularity to suffer. Our tracker, following Mr Trump’s approval rating over time, has already shown a notable downward tick in the past few weeks. His net favourability rating is negative, once more, wiping out the slightly positive bump he had enjoyed since early November. My prediction—as is usual for presidents—is for a steadily downward drift from here onwards. 

Another notable date in North America will be the Canadian election. Keep up with that important (and not unrelated) contest, which will happen on April 28th, with our poll tracker. And if it all gets too much and you’re tempted by puzzles, we now publish a mini crossword every week.

Finally, many thanks for all of your responses nominating your favourite airports. I’ve learned that global readers of this newsletter are an immensely well-travelled lot. I now have a long list of places that I’d love to experience—I urgently need an excuse to make a reporting trip to a remote island in the Pacific, for starters. We’ve published a selection of your responses as an article, which I urge you to read. To continue this theme, I’d now like to follow up with a more negative question: which is the worst airport you’ve ever experienced, and why? Write to me at economisttoday@economist.com.

WIKI

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mandalay



曼德勒
မန္တလေး
Mandalay

瓦城
曼德勒旗幟
旗幟
曼德勒在緬甸的位置
曼德勒
曼德勒
曼德勒在緬甸之位置
坐標:21°58′59″N 96°05′04″E
國家 緬甸
行政區劃曼德勒省
曼德勒縣
政府
 • 市長覺山
面積[1]
 • 總計163.84 平方公里(63.26 平方英里)
海拔22 公尺(70 英尺)
人口(2014)[2]
 • 總計1,726,889 [2][3]
 • 密度10,540人/平方公里(27,299人/平方英里)



曼德勒[5][6][7]緬甸語မန္တလေး manta.le: [mándəlé];英語:Mandalay),緬甸華人又稱為瓦城[8]華城,位於緬甸中部伊洛瓦底江畔,是曼德勒省省會,緬甸第二大城市,因背靠曼德勒山而得名。

曼德勒城由貢榜王朝敏東王於1857年建立,並從阿瑪拉普拉遷都於此。曼德勒是緬甸君主制時代最後的都城,長期是緬甸的商貿與文化重鎮。儘管近年來緬甸新首都奈比都興起,曼德勒仍然是上緬甸地區主要的商業、教育和醫療中心。20世紀80年代以來,以雲南民係為主的華人移民在曼德勒定居,成為本地的重要群體。

名稱


當代歷史

[編輯]

1948年,緬甸獨立,曼德勒繼續為上緬甸的文化、教育和經濟中心。奈溫任總統期間,曼德勒的基礎設施欠缺維護,城市日漸破敗。到20世紀80年代,作為緬甸第二大城市的曼德勒仍是低矮破舊的小鎮景象。整個80年代,曼德勒發生了兩次大火災,財產損失達9600萬美元[27]。1981年5月,城內失火,六千多座房屋被毀,致使九萬人無家可歸[27]。1984年3月24日的火災則燒毀了2,700座房屋,有23,000人無家可歸[28][29]。2008年2月和2009年2月又有兩次火災發生[30][31]

從20世紀80年代起,漸次有大量華人移民至此,在此置地經商,其中以雲南人為主[32][33]。20世紀90年代,約有25萬至30萬雲南人移民至曼德勒[34]。2002年,有估計指華人人口已占當地人口的三至四成[34]

2006年,緬甸遷都奈比都,但曼德勒仍然是上緬甸的中心城市,並在近年來迎來大量投資和新開發項目。2018年10月,曼德勒被CIO Asia評為東南亞十大智慧城市中的第五位[35]

地理

[編輯]
空拍市區

曼德勒位於緬甸中部乾旱區的腹地,海拔80米,城區位於伊洛瓦底江東岸。受若開山脈阻隔,曼德勒為半乾旱氣候區(BSh),冷熱交替明顯。一月的均溫在21°C,四月的均溫則達到31°C。曼德勒每年的四月和五月非常炎熱,氣溫經常高於35°C,甚至突破40°C,曾有45攝氏度的最高氣溫記錄,被稱為緬甸的「火爐」[9]:127。曼德勒的雨季和旱季幾乎是等長的,雨季從5月持續到10月,而旱季則覆蓋剩餘的6個月[36]。旱季的晝夜溫差比雨季大得多。

曼德勒坐落在印度板塊巽他板塊交界處的實皆斷層,因而地震多發[37]。史上最大的地震為1839年地震,達到8.2級。最近的一次地震發生在2025年3月28日,震級為7.7級[38]

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